The Balvenie Golden Cask (Frankenstein) expression
It is one year since I started blogging on a brand new website called Whisky Odyssey. On Leap Day 2024 we kicked off, and last Saturday we celebrated it with a fantastic Clynelish from 1974. A few weeks ago, I started making a list of all the (active) Scottish distilleries I tasted on the blog, and subsequently found out which distilleries have eluded me. The aim for the coming year is to taste quite a few of these missing ones. Of course, it is going to be hard to taste output from the Balmaud of Ardross distilleries, since they are still incredibly new, but hey, we need challenges for the next few years too of course!
So, this week, we will taste three expressions from distilleries not yet represented on Long Pour Amour, as we rebranded the Whisky Odyssey site a few months ago. Surprisingly, The Balvenie single malt, smaller relative to the world famous Glenfiddich Distillery, was among the ones missing. Chances are, you started your journey with this easy going Speyside whisky. I know I had a few bottles at home in my early days of getting into whisky. Also, visiting the distillery way back in 2007 was an amazing experience. The single barrel offerings in the distillery shop (at Glenfiddich) were excellent quality. I have fond memories of a 17 year old full sherry version. And of course those “Tun” expressions were quite interesting. And still … the last time I put a Balvenie in the glass is so long ago, I fail to remember when it was.
Many whisky retailers provide opportunities to buy samples. I recommend this if you are curious about expressions without wanting to commit to a full 70 cl bottle. Especially when you find something that is not entirely your cup of tea. Of course, going to a festival or BYOB events is still the best, because then you also get to meet lovely people. Anyway, I ordered some samples from the speedy deliverers of Whiskysite. Without further ado, we taste a Balvenie!
Balvenie Golden Cask, 12 years old, bottled at 43 % abv
First things first: There have been several expressions of the Balvenie Golden Cask, all bottled at 14 years old and at 47,5 % abv. This is the latest iteration but now two years younger and bottled at a lower 43 % abv. Finished in rum seasoned oak casks. That is new too, previous labels made no mention of seasoning. Has the ‘sherry seasoning’ disease spread on to rum now too? Golden rum means aged rum, which is undermined by using the word ‘seasoning’, is it not? This way it is about the cask, and not the rum. Oh dear… well, at least the name is accurate then. Let’s taste while we weep.
Upon Sipping: Initially quite “saw mill” in style, lots of dry wood and dust, but not lacking expression. It is a bright and sunny Balvenie, for sure, with some extra makeup on. In the background someone is letting his pancake go cold. The syrup on it already soaked into the food. Some apples on top. This smells like a Turkish all-inclusive resort around lunchtime. Not bad, makes me want to put on my bathing suit and sunglasses. The mouthfeel is (sadly) totally flat, like cardboard, with an undertone of bitterness, thick molasses and something chemical that could pass as herbs. The rum is noticeable, but is this the kind of rum you want to massacre your delicate Speyside whisky in? You should read the previous sentence in Marlon Brando Godfather voice. “Look how they massacred by boy!” The finish… yes, sadly. It all feels so artificial.
Word to the Wise: Drinking this Balvenie is like sitting in the sun with a Bacardi Rum, while next to you someone is sipping a Caroni. You both have a product that is called “rum” in the glass, but there is a difference as big as the Grand Canyon.
Same goes for this Balvenie and other single malts like Springbank or Ardnamurchan who also not shy away from finishing their whisky in rum. For some, it is about selling their soul, I guess. Words like “authenticity” and “integrity” should be used in creating a whisky expression, but somehow this was forgotten in creating this Frankenstein Balvenie. A doctored whisky, without any soul, Scottish nor Caribbean. Sorry to sound harsh, but when I saw the price on this, I cannot think of anything else but evil intentions.
Score: 72 points.
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