Two ancient Dalwhinnie that underline classic quality
Dalwhinnie has been and still is one of the Classic Malts to represent the different whisky regions of Scotland, as once invented by their owner, the current day Diageo. Dalwhinnie represents the Highland style in this series, that is further made up of Lagavulin (Islay), Glenkinchie (Lowland), Oban (West Highland), Talisker (Island) and Cragganmore (Speyside). One could say that this series saved Glenkinchie, Cragganmore and Dalwhinnie from obscurity. What is true in any case, is that few distilleries have such a scenic location in Scotland as Dalwhinnie, the highest above sea level distillery, located just off the A9.
On a trip towards Fort William and ultimately Mallaig to take a ferry to Skye, we once passed the distillery towards the A86. A route that will take you along the rugged scenery of Loch Laggan. Truly breathtaking. In 2013, I would visit the distillery on a proper tour. Memorable enough, and even more so when we got to taste a cask sample from a very straightforward bourbon matured teenage Dalwhinnie that was just delicious. This is when we learned that raw Dalwhinnie has quite a lot to offer. Sadly, a lot of variation is not to be found in the core range, with the classic 15 years old, a Distillers Edition and an unassuming NAS expression called Winter’s Gold. Recently, I was surprised with the older expressions that we will taste today. They were blind samples in the Blind Tasting Club I partake in. I will gladly share my notes with you of these two classics, to which I had no objection tasting again!
Dalwhinnie 25 years old, vintage 1987, bottled at 52,1 % abv
First things first: A Special Release from 2012, this Dalwhinnie matured in American oak casks. In total 5358 bottles were released. A rather modest outturn, so rare whisky in the glass here! Over the years, Dalwhinnie has featured a few times in the Special Releases, the oldest one being a 36 years old bottled in 2002.
Upon Sipping: Quite a fruity specimen of a whisky, and quite light for a Highland single malt. But Dalwhinnie has a lot of elegance, and this 25 years old expression is no exception. Besides some apricot and light Maribelle aroma, there is a lot of honey and wax to be found in this whisky. Evolved vanilla flavours, mixed with woodsmoke, giving a nod towards citrusy directions. After some breathing, finally some typical highland characteristics appear, like herbs and heather. On the palate, the citrusy and waxy note continues, with flowery honey notes. The wood had quite the impact on the Dalwhinnie spirit, making it quite a challenge to connect the nuances of the fruitier side of this with the bitter notes. There is fun in that challenge. With a drop of water, fruitier notes come out, not so much different but mostly more exuberant. The palate and finish suffer a little, giving way to some overly floral notes.
Word to the Wise: Impressive classic stuff, not entirely unlike good old, mature Clynelish. This honeyed beeswax note is really impressive on this one. In the end, even though I had my doubts, this is very good blueprint for what a Highland single malt should be. A rewarding challenge.
Score: 89 points.
Dalwhinnie 29 years old, vintage 1973, bottled at 57,8 % abv
First things first: A Special Release from 2003, one of the very early ones, as this series started in 2001 as the follow-up display for rare malts from Diageo. Previously those malts were bottled in the Rare Malts Selection, but Dalwhinnie (nor Lagavulin or Talisker, to name a few) ever featured in that series. A chance to shine for this classic malt. Only 5220 bottles were released.
Upon Sipping: Wow, a whole new experience here, being distilled almost 15 years earlier than the previous sample. This Dalwhinnie opens on spicy prawn crackers before hinting towards sour fruit sorts, like berries, cherry and sour candy. Some honey makes an entrance, but there is a whole lot going on here, and it changes with every sniff. Some citrusy smells too, making me think of a high-end tequila, just hand me the salt and lemon. In the distance some old, tired wood, lying in a forest on a secluded summer’s day, rotting away in the moss.
Taking a sip, it is like licking the inside of a DeLorean time machine, because it certainly tastes like something from a bygone era. To me, it comes off just a tad too bitter, so I think water is going to help bring out some fruitiness that is clearly there on the nose, but not yet on the palate. Look at this high abv at almost 30 years of age, not unlike many expressions in the Rare Malts Selection. With water, you get more tropical fruits on the nose, mixed with nice mint. The bitterness has now retreated enough to enjoy the more delicate character of Dalwhinnie.
What I like, is that there is still a lot of distillery character to be found in the glass, that has turned indeed tropical after some three decades in wood. Suddenly, I find myself craving a cherry pie.
Word to the Wise: Ancient stuff, not entirely flawless, but that makes it a thrilling experience. To have such a mature Dalwhinnie in the glass, distilled more than 50 years ago, is just a delight.
Score: 90 points.
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