Bridging the gap between Genever and Whisky
Hooghoudt is a very well known name in the Dutch distilled spirits landscape. Over here, they are most famous for their Genever. The family owned business is in production since 1888 and are awarded the royal status, which is common for companies that are over 100 years of age. It is perhaps a sign of the times, that they too now move in the direction of whisky. The target audience of Genever is getting tighter and tighter, as it failed to grab the attention of younger crowds. At the same time, Gin has become the preferred tiple for consuming. The main difference is that Genever is made from malted barley, corn and rye, but Gin can be made of any grain.
Hooghoudt released an impressive range of Dutch Lowland Whisky just a few weeks ago. This new direction for the company now even dominates the homepage of their website. They are committing to the style, to say the least. I have to admit, Genever never hit the sweet spot with me. My limited experience with the distillate is pouring a glass for my uncle on Saturday afternoons that we would spend at grandma. I was fascinated by the brand (“Olifant”) but that is where my interest stopped. Later, in my whisky years, we made a few pilgrimages to Zuidam Distillery who also started out with Genever, but is now just as known for the Millstone whisky. Tasted some great distillates there, but no, I never caught the bug. So, with that background, I can tell you my scores and opinions today are very influenced by that.
Hooghoudt 5 years old, bottled at 46 % abv
First things first: This Dutch Lowland single grain whisky has matured in Ex-Hertog Jan Grand Prestige casks. Hertog Jan is a beer brand in The Netherlands owned by AB InBev.
Upon Sipping: I poured a glass and admired the beautiful design of the bottles and labels of this range. You can really feel that a lot of effort has been put into this step for the company. On the nose, some light candied notes and faint hints of grain. Herbal influences, too, and also a bit alcohol fume. It’s a little too simple and subdued, but as it stands it is quite nice. On the tongue, the Hooghoudt feels fresh and vibrant, but there is a bitter note that does not really speak to me. I read something about a beer cask on the label, and I’m not really into beer combined with whisky, so this is a matter of personal taste, not about quality. The finish, however, edges too close to what Hooghoudt is known for: Genever. Alcoholic and without distinct character. That is a pity. But again, I must stress this, I never really enjoyed this typically Dutch drink.
Word to the Wise: Okay, for me, this is still too close to being a gimmick, Genever cosplaying as Whisky, but in general, I have to say: good effort. I think if this fits you, you will see in this young grain whisky a perfect bridge between those two styles of distillate, that are indeed closer related than many know. But this is not single malt, and it shows. Sidenote: this is friendly priced.
Score: 75 points
Hooghoudt 9 years old, bottled at 46 % abv
First things first: This Dutch Lowland single grain whisky has matured in oloroso sherry casks.
Upon Sipping: Aha, but this is more in my direction straight away. Very nice on the red fruits but it remains vibrant and fresh, maybe even bordering on fragile. Some light hints of glue in a Kindergarten classroom, if you get what I mean, but overall quite nice. On the nose, it could be compared to Scottish grains, which also goes to show that sherried notes (in my mind) connect me sooner to whisky. The taste is a more fascinating feature of this whisky, because it reminds me immediately of high quality barley wine. The finish brings pleasant wooded notes, with hints of chocolate and delicate smokiness.
Word to the Wise: This one pleases me as a (single malt) whisky drinker, so a job well done. The nose gives good vibes, that are not followed as such on the palate, but in both cases (the 5 and 9 years old) we can clearly notice these products are made with skill. I love how you can still pick out the core grain ingredients from this one, so the oloroso is complimentary to the whisky, not dominating (as the nose would suggest).
Score: 79 points.
BONUS: Boomsma Inaugural Release 7 years old, bottled at 40 % abv
First things first: Boomsma is a Dutch (Fryslan) distillery with roots dating back to 1883, so even older than Hooghoudt. They developed this single malt whisky together with a Frysian beer brewer, and released it to celebrate their 140th anniversary. Let us compare with the Hooghoudt products! This single malt (the first difference with Hooghoudt) matured in bourbon casks (the second difference). In 2023, 2200 beautiful bottles were made.
Upon Sipping: Lots of vanilla to begin with and underneath that strong whiffs of yellow fruit and dry barley. Some hints of menthol, grass and banana. For me, this feels more connected to what a whisky should be. On the palate, the taste is very grainy indeed, quite dry, and missing some lively notes. The balance is good. The 40 % abv was a mistake, if you ask me, because it lacks some punch on the finish, but a nice vanilla hint lingers long after swallowing. I have to say, the longer it stands in my glass, the comparison to the Scottish Daftmill comes to mind. Very pure and authentic whisky, with a podium on which the barley can shine.
Word to the Wise: Very light and pleasing single malt whisky, with lots of potential. What it lacks is a more exuberant fruitiness, but maybe this will appear if Boomsma managed to put stock aside for longer ageing. As it stands, this is an Inaugural to be proud of.
Score: 81 points.
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