Benriach at its absolute peak with Signatory
We kick off the week with this first of two 100 proof bottlings we will review this week. Be sure to check back in on Wednesday when we taste the new Longrow 100 proof (among others). For today, we turn to a series released by Signatory Vintage that continues to make waves. This time I will not speak of the prices of these releases, but purely about the quality of the stuff. It is just amazing, and the 100 proof editions by Signatory are most of all an excellent showcase for sherry maturation. Most bottles invoke memories of classic single malt whisky that was available in such abundance at the beginning of this century, when excellent products distilled in the 1970s were coming of age. Modern sherry casks started turning into a much more nutty driven flavour profile around 2010, mostly because a decent sherry cask is incredibly hard to obtain. Sherry seasoning is the magic concept these days, but it just does not create the sheer brilliance of the real deal. Signatory seems to own a good deal of authentic sherry casks.
Today we taste a rare Speysider, namely Benriach. The brand itself has clearly risen from obscurity that seemed its fate decades ago. On the shoulders of stellar vintages like the 1976, Benriach caught the eye of many whisky enthusiasts. In recent years, the bottles have returned to a much tighter, straight forward, classic white label. And we have seen less and less of Benriach in independent bottlers hands. Today is therefor, a nice chance to see variation!
Benriach 10 years old, vintage 2014, bottled at 57,1 % abv by Signatory Vintage
First things first: Matured in first fill oloroso sherry butts. There are two editions out already, we taste edition # 40. Un-chill filtered and no added colour. This one is extremely dark, all on its own.
Upon Sipping: A big hit that showcases the two sides of good sherry maturation, constantly rocking back and forth between red fruit notes and cigar leaves in an old wooden humidor. On the palate, the red fruit is much more dominant and remains fresh and silky all the time, until you swallow your sip and a nice, burning, strawberry chocolate note makes an exit. Then the bitterness of cigar leaves linger, like smouldering embers (if I could swallow a burned out log from the fireplace this is what it would taste like). With water, the nose gives more notes of overripe cherries that I imagine taste a little sour. The taste has the sweetness of a PX maturation, but its is kept in balance with a complexity and maturity you will more easily find in single malt twice the age. In a way, I am reminded of the classic 1996 vintages from Longmorn, that were quite a hit 15 years ago when they came out. The Benriach spirit is really vibing in unison with these sherry butts!
Word to the Wise: One to drink now or to stash away for 10 – 15 years and shock your friends with when you pour it in the year 2040. A future classic, and perhaps one of the most impressive from the 100 proof editions done by Signatory Vintage. If you have not already stocked up, chances are you will never see this bottle again against retail prices.
Score: 89 points.