The Wolfburn 12 years old: austerity as art
Welcome back at the regular programming of the Long Pour Amour Whisky Blog! With the exception of some entries in Tom’s Dram Diary, we took a four week summer break. Not that we did not have enough samples to keep on going, but sometimes I find it wholesome to just not drink whisky for a while. Or, when I drink, drink in the literal sense and not taste or analyse of whatever word you can you use for what I do. I will have you know that on holiday in Turkey, I tasted two blends over ice, and I actually massively enjoyed them. The drams were a simple J&B and a Chivas Regal 12 years old. The unpretentious pleasure of sipping away, and heaven forbid one evening even putting it in my Coke Zero, was a fine experience. A reset for the senses. Forget about Dry January, consider a Dry July. I am ready to dig in the serious work again.
Social media started buzzing with incredibly beautiful pictures of a new release by Wolfburn. They have now brought out a core range 12 years old. More power to them! Ever since they released their first 10 years old in the red box, I started following Wolfburn more closely. Another 10 years old was reviewed by me here, and now we move up two more years. This northern highland malt is not one that wears its heart on the sleeve, you really have to nitpick for nuances. I wonder when the scale tips over to added complexity. Is this expression the one to deliver?
Wolfburn 12 year old, bottled at 46 % abv
First things first: Bottled on the first of July of 2025, and matured in bourbon and oloroso casks.
Upon Sipping: There is definitely something new to be found in this Wolfburn. On top of all the (by now) traditional Wolfburn smells like pinewood and soft maritime notes, there is an extra. I mostly pick up sticky Nutella notes, hazelnut and molten M&M’s in the palm of your hand. Pfew, I am dropping some brand names here… Lovely nutty and chocolatey smells, in short. These aromas translate to the oily and herbal palate, with an added hint of smoke and something like tree bark. Tree bark? Well, yes, I admit never licking tree bark but somehow it makes me think of it. Upon returning to the glass, I pick up some whiffs of glue. It amazes me that Wolfburn remains a very grimly dram. Austerity as art. Now Wolfburn becomes seriously mature, one tries to think with which malt whisky you could compare this. But it is difficult to think of something. I am reminded of versions of the Tomatin 12 years old at the beginning of this century. One day later I taste the remainder of my sample, and pick up distinct mushrooms, which leads immediately to the joys of Edradour. As a drinking whisky, it has the true highland glamour, a certain roughness that causes immense pleasure. Good balance between wood and softer chocolate notes.
Word to the Wise: Certainly one of the more unique flavour and character profiles out there. Wolfburn is amplifying the highland soul with the new instalment of the age stated releases. I hope they do a release every two years, provided they have set aside enough stock to keep that up till, let’s say, a 21 years old? I love the progress, it is fierce.
Score: 84 points.