Fettercairn at entry level: a bit underwhelming
In longer ago days, when I was without beard but with more hair on the top of my head, Fettercairn was a single malt very much in the shadows of the Scotch landscape. I suppose most output went to the blends of Whyte & Mackay, but there was a single malt release at 12 years old at the time I visited the distillery in the summer of 2007. That was a very likeable expression to me, and when I bought one of the leading whisky books of the day, written by David Wishart, he put the taste profile of this Fettercairn in the same category as Tomatin. In short: very much my preferred style of heathery, robust Highland malt whisky. Over the years, I have seen Fettercairn creep out of these shadows, and demand a spot for itself. There was a half-hearted attempt with an entry level NAS expression called Fior bottled at 42 % abv, in bottles so tall they did not fit in your whisky cabinet. The current livery (which we will taste today) was introduced around 2018, in an eyecatcher of a bottle. Since then, Fettercairn has been showing up more, on the shelves and in the favour of whisky enthusiasts. Did the product improve, or just the placement? For comparison we lined up a same age Fettercairn by an independent bottler.
Visiting Fettercairn in 2007 was a delight. Really off the beaten track in a little hamlet of the same name, famous for the arch dedicated to Queen Victoria’s visit. My partner and me where the only visitors of the day, and even we made just a detour from staying in Stonehaven, going to Dunnotar Castle along the North Sea coast. The distillery had this truly quaint vibe to it, and the equipment seemed to hail from Victorian times as well, not just the arch in the village. The price attraction is of course the fantastic stills, that have rings around their necks, slowly trickling water along the outside of the copper, as extra cooling for the vapours inside.
Fettercairn 12 years old, bottled at 40 % abv
First things first: A 2023 bottled official 12 years old Fettercairn matured in American Oak ex-bourbon casks.
Upon Sipping: Much more vanilla compared to the memory I have of tasting previous 12 years old expressions. Those were much more heathery. I also remember these bottlings leaned on artificial colouring, so is this the difference? There is a lot of malty notes to be found here, so I do get the feeling the spirit is allowed to speak. The vanilla might be a bit in the way, but it is certainly not a bother. The taste is a tad simple, for which I blame the low abv. Even the 42 % abv of the Fior would have been better for this. Now it turned a bit into vanilla juice and oak sap. Slight hints of honey, and a dark note of bitter wood that does give some punch on the finish. Not expecting much, I added some water, but no, there is little extra on this Fettercairn.
Word to the Wise: All in all it is too simple and unassuming to even hit the 80 points mark, and that is a pity. I fully blame the bottling strength, which leaves too much room for cardboard notes to creep in. But in the end, I think this Fettercairn expression needs a little cask variation to really stand out in the crowd. In the end, I am a tad disappointed. Please, let it shine brighter!
Score: 78 points.
Fettercairn 12 years old, bottled at 53,7 % abv by Liquid Treasures
Upon Sipping: Okay, no bourbon comparison here, only the age is the same. And this is of course a single cask. Anyway, I thought I knew what I was doing. The colour on this Fettercairn is rather light so that had me fooled, but sticking the nose in the glass the sherry is very much there. It is an old-fashioned sulphury expression, with hints of walnut and burned peanuts lurking in the background. You should not be overly sensitive to these elements, or you won’t be pleased at all. I actually enjoy a bit more danger coming from the glass, but that is because the previous sample was so utterly dull. This has a dirty edge, burning butter in the pan just screaming to receive a slice of bacon, sunflower oil and purple heather on a unusually hot summer’s day in the Scottish highlands. Now we’re talking! The gunpowder remains dominant after some breathing. Taking a sip, the palate gets rewarded with a nice oily texture, but the finish is a challenge full of wet, smoky wood that for God knows whatever reason you decided to lick. More recognisable, sucking burning Sambuca from a bar in the dodgy parts of Edinburgh, using a straw. Twenty years ago, I would have called this a typical German oriented Scotch, and this one fits that mold perfectly. The wood smoke at the tail end of the finish is pleasing. With water, more heather and burning bushes. Yeah, this is a rough diamond. Water brings out the slightest hints of red fruit.
Word to the Wise: Despite some more fun and danger, the flaws on this Fettercairn are numerous and damaging for a good score. On the other hand, if you like a rough ride and want something to mull over for a long time, perhaps nurture it by keeping the bottle open for a long time in the back of your cabinet, this could be for you.
Score: 80 points.