The Single Oak Project: Buffalo Trace spoiled the geeks
If you think the Glenfarclas Family Cask series was an impressive whisky collection, we can geek you out by explaining what the Buffalo Trace Distillery over in Kentucky did with their whiskey. They created the Single Oak Project and they call it ‘the most extensive bourbon experiment ever undertaken’. They selected no more and no less than 96 oak trees that differed according to the number of growth rings per inch and growing location. Each of these 96 trees where then cut into a top and a bottom part, resulting in 192 different sections. From each section, Buffalo Trace created a single barrel. But that is not all! They also varied the stave seasoning time. Also, the 192 barrels were charred differently. And if that all was not enough, the casks were filled with different recipe whiskeys, at various entry proofs (not uncommon in Genever maturation) and placed at different locations in warehouses. All the variables combined, you could find 1.396 variations in The Single Oak Project. The question is: who got to taste them all? The whiskey was sold in sets of 192 bottles, apparently, but my friend Sjoerd acquired just one of these 375 ml bottles. He organised a share, and I got my hands on 3 cl of it. Here we go!
Buffalo Trace 2002, 12 years old, bottled at 45 % abv
First things first: Distilled in 2002 and matured until 2014, this is a rather old bourbon that matured in barrel (if I read the label correctly) # 111.
Upon Sipping: A beautiful dark colour introducing delightful white vanilla, soft wood notes, caramel and burned sugar. Oh, this is one Kentucky straight bourbon to fall in love with. The glass keeps offering new smells, but all in the wooded and creamy spectrum. Taking a sip, the mouth is covered with a silky soft arrival full of sweet caramel and praline chocolate. The finish contains a ton of wood, but it is not overpowering. Sugary notes return and linger long after the alcohol kick has subdued. This particular cask has a lot of backbone for a 45 % abv bourbon. The contrast between the very easy-going mouthfeel and the rather bratty finish offers a lot of fun. We cannot be anything else than very impressed by the incredible balance of this single cask. I keep returning to the rich bouquet on this glass. A 375 ml bottle of this might not be enough, I tell ya!
Word to the Wise: Within the bourbon spectrum, this is an impeccable single barrel offering. It mixes a mellow character with enough backbone kick to make it a very interesting expression. Prices on these whiskeys are (justifiably) high, but being part of such a elaborate project is indeed truly unique. Pity that I could not find more information on this particular barrel. I would not be surprised if this matured with a little dilution straight from the start. It is totally not overpowered by the wood, which is one of the pitfalls for other long-aged bourbons.
Score: 87 points.