The yearly SR rant and two Lagavulin 12 years old
Some unconfirmed chatter I picked up in the community states that the yearly Special Releases done by Diageo are coming to an end. If that were the case, I would be very sad, but on the other hand it would be best to come up with something new if you are not going to take your own products seriously. Diageo has been degrading the Special Releases for quite a few years now. The series used to offer fans insights into rarely seen ages or even distilleries. We got the likes of Lagavulin 21 years old and the Rosebank 25 years old, but also the rare Convalmore or deep sherry matured Benrinnes. Who remembers the beyond excellent 1969 Oban 32 years old bottled in 2002? Since 2021 we have seen more Oban … and all between 10 to 12 years of age. A steady stream of middle aged Cardhu is welcome, but hardly special anymore if you release a version of it every year. Than it just becomes random. The Special Releases are indeed now the Random Releases, with the aid of elaborate stories and art for the packaging that is absolutely beautiful, but utterly forgettable. Nice to show in an unboxing video on Instagram perhaps, but to me that looks incredibly dull. I want to have good and out of the ordinary whisky, thank you very much.
To be fair, the Special Releases actually provide some interesting expressions in 2025. My mind goes out to an experimental Clynelish or a full-blown sherry matured Dailuaine 21 years old, in colour very reminiscent of the fantastic Benrinnes 23 years old of many years ago. With Teaninich they release a full on rye whisky (which legally has to be called “single grain” in Scotland). So yeah, enough to enjoy. But then there is this little thing where Diageo shows to be out of touch with the crowd. The prices on these bottles. The landscape is changing drastically, and one cannot justify anymore to him- or herself or others, that over 400 in any valuta for a Dailuaine is a good price, when there is a sherried Speysider in the Signatory 100 proof series that would probably kick its ass from here to Sunday. And that you can buy 8 of these bottles for the one Diageo release.
Today we are going to taste two Lagavulin 12 years old from the Special Releases. The new one from 2025 and the dreaded Tequila Lagavulin from 2023. Last year, I tasted the 2024 edition with much delight, and stated that if the price was right I would have bought a bottle. Well, one retailer in The Netherlands dumped his lot on the market for (relatively speaking) a giveaway price. I wonder how his customers felt about this, the ones that shelved out close to double the digits for the same bottle only one year ago. For me, it has become very simple now. I do not buy the Special Releases anymore in the year that they are released. I prefer honest whisky, for honest prices, and I am willing to bet these days are returning. Just a matter of time. And then I hope we can get back to the thrill of buying a new release as soon as it hits the shelf. That is what whisky is about.
Lagavulin 12 years old, Special Releases 2025, bottled at 56,5 % abv
First things first: Grain & Embers is the name, and this 12 years old Lagavulin matured in refill casks, and PX- and oloroso seasoned European Oak butts.
Upon Sipping: Incredibly light colour considering the cask make-up. My first impression of this Lagavulin is actually that it is a pretty regular expression, with a lot of ashes and soot. More maritime hints come out with some swirling of the glass. Yes, a classic and almost naked Lagavulin, all on lemons and grapefruit and medicinal whiffs. This is how a hospital should smell, instead of the stale urine that you usually get. But where is the fanfare of these casks? We continue with a sip and that sketches the same outline. Maybe a few sour notes that might be from the seasoned casks, but I am getting the feeling this was a batch created out of 95 bourbon casks and 5 of those European butts. Yeah, this is more a bourbon Lagavulin that got seasoned, if nothing else. With water, we release a dirty edge, turning the medical and maritime notes into something more farmy. This is actually a tremendous Lagavulin Special Release, but I truly do not pick up any of the PX or oloroso. Probably for the better. So lots of lemon zest, ashes, smoked fruits like white grapes and a perfect peat explosion on the finish. Very peppery, like a good sauce on your steak.
Word to the Wise: To be honest, the description of the casks used to create this Lagavulin is extremely misleading, but the light colour should be an indication that something is off. While we are puzzled about this, we do get an excellent Lagavulin, that mostly ignores the influence of the European oak, and delivers a straightforward Islay malt.
Score: 88 points.
Lagavulin 12 years old, Special Releases 2023, bottled at 56,4 % abv
First things first: The Ink of Legends is the name, and this 12 years old Lagavulin was finished in Don Julio Añejo Tequila casks.
Upon Sipping: This is indeed the Lagavulin that made a lot of people check out of the Special Releases Hotel. But here we are, having a taste. On the nose, this is very reminiscent of the Mezcal expression Lagavulin did for the Jazz Festival a few years ago. Strong on the meaty flavours and the agave is undeniably there. The ashes that we like in Lagavulin are mixed with a weird, rather artificial smell, like a Tupperware box just from the dishwasher. Sounds worse than it actually is. Taking a sip, the fruity flavours stand out, before you feel it mixes with the peat and turns into a vinegar sensation. Lots of brine and olive oil and perhaps some garlic juice. Then it becomes very sour, with a flowery finish. When it settles, and you actually get used to it, it is not so bad. I have no idea how long the finishing was. There was enough of it to make you experience the tequila, but there is also enough of the Lagavulin soul left to make this an Islay dram with a twist. I liked the Mezcal expression better, but this is certainly in that same lane. All it does is take away a lot of the medicinal and maritime character that I usually like in Lagavulin. What is left is the elements of peat and agave that seem to click quite naturally.
Word to the Wise: The chatter and reputation where loud, but this Lagavulin is just fine, with a variation on the familiar peaty theme. Tequila and Mezcal can bring something nice to a single malt whisky. There are some off-notes to be found, but I was not too bothered.
Score: 86 points.