Grandpa and grandson Johnnie Walker compared!
It is that weird time of the year where you do not really know what to do with yourself. Your belly is probably exploding from the food intake during Christmas, and you decide to save some power for all the treats and Champagne that will inevitably come for New Year’s Eve. For me, edge in between these two holidays, is also my birthday. We have something special planned for that tomorrow, so be sure to check back in on the 30th of December.
Today, we keep it simple, and will present to you the debut on this blog of probably the most famous whisky brand in the world: Johnnie Walker. More specifically, we will explore the pleasures of the beloved Black Label expression. Around the summer, someone offered a sample of an older version of this 12 years old blended Scotch. I snooped it up, and via my dear friend Emy I could also arrange a sample of the current day expression. As nerds do when they fill their glasses: they compare! Be sure to read all the way to the end, as we throw in an extra sample as well.
Johnnie Walker Black Label (1970s), 12 years old, bottled at 40 % abv
First things first: A 750 ml bottle “Johnnie Black” importer by the famous Genovese company Wax & Vitale. This is probably an expression bottled somewhere in the 1970s, judging by the tax label.
Upon Sipping: Wow, this hits me smack in the middle of my face. I did not expect it to be so brilliant, full of old 1960s vintage malt character. This JW brings back memories of very old Clynelish, with a lots of waxes, blood oranges, honey, a fruity dustiness and hints of cherries from sherried content that is blended away in the big picture. Unimaginable that the malt content of this creation is low. There is a distinct stamp from multiple recognisable distilleries. Get your old school Clynelish and Caol Ila here people! That was the nose, how about the palate? It has a rather sweet arrival, before it turns more briny. Here we can taste some metal, of which I am not sure it was the influence of the cap that closed this bottles for 50 or 55 or so years. A tad bitter towards the end, but the texture of this Johnnie Walker Black Label from days gone by is absolutely impressive. It does not hurt at all that this comes in at just 40 % abv. Returning to the glass again and again, there is a strong waxy, Highland signature on the nose, and the distinct but mellow Islay finish. Now what to say about the palate in between? Some Speyside sweetness there? It is difficult to say, since the condition of the bottle had an imprint here that cloaks bits and pieces. With a drop of water, we release more broth, always a sign of OBE (old bottle effect), and on the palate a hint of sulphur and meaty flavours. Hello, is Mortlach home? Yes, could well be.
Word to the Wise: This bottling of Johnnie Walker Black Label is a fantastic whisky to use when you want to dissect what the recipe is. There are unmistakable hints of the old classics of yesteryear and, well, also today’s classics. A very moving whisky!
Score: 87 points.
Johnnie Walker Black Label (circa 2020-2024), 12 years old, bottled at 40 % abv
First things first: The modern-day version at 12 years old.
Upon Sipping: What a difference 50 years make (duh!). The modern-day version of Johnnie Walker Black Label opens on caramel notes and a whiff of smoke. Maybe even a muddy vibe, or wet charcoal. The good thing is, that it offers something extra instead of being a boring blend. On the palate, it continues to be quite brooding and has nothing of the sweetness I found in the ancestor. It does feel oily and sticky, but leans more towards syrup. The finish offers a lot of brine, and one can really imagine that Caol Ila has a thing or two to say in this recipe. As it is, it does not stand a chance against the old version we tasted above, but I do have to say that the modern Black Label is not a throwaway liquid at all. It just leans heavily on a darker note, instead of the easy drinkers like Chivas Regal 12 years old. Quite some muscle, yes.
Word to the Wise: Compared to the ancestor, the modern Black Label is a different beast. By comparison, I would say the new version needs perhaps a sweet infusion. Let us see if we can find the missing link (to me personally) in the next sample. In any case, the Johnie Walker Black Label is a fine product and can easily feature as a benchmark whisky for what 80 points are all about.
Score: 80 points.
Johnnie Walker Black Ruby (2025), bottled at 40 % abv
First things first: The age statement is gone from this expression, but the cask make-up has been explicitly laid out: casks that previously held wine, PX sherry and bourbon were used from the Black Label reserves. Funnily enough, because of the name I thought there would be port wine.
Upon Sipping: Ooph, well, this is not my cup of tea, since this whisky indeed smells like red wine. The one you will find on the table the day after New Year’s Eve, that was left there because somebody got too much and needed to run fast to hurl it all out safely in the toilet bowl. It has a distracting off-note of red wine spilled on table cloth. Very weird. The taste is better, offering something nice for people with a sweet tooth (which I can be counted amongst). The mouthfeel is remarkably thin, I have to say, almost watery. The finish is quite alike the regular Black Label.
Word to the Wise: Alright, it is a variation, but it sorely lacks the depth that the regular Black Label manages to offer. Is that the 12 years of maturation that is missing in this Black Ruby? In this expression, I am much more aware of the grain content. Very light, but drunk on wine. I can hardly recommend this bottle.
Score: 72 points.