Glenglassaugh Portsoy: the soul of coastal malt
Finally, we managed to get the official Glenglassaugh on the table, or at least one of them. With a proud signature of Rachel Barrie on the label, expectations are high. This Master Blender, who revamped the Benriach core range a few years ago, knows how to make attractive bottlings. Today, we try a rather exotic one, with peat smoke and port wine influences. Glenglassaugh was one of the first names to surface last year in rumours about a mothballing of some sort, in line with the worldwide decline in sales. Apparently, Benriach and Glenglassaugh are to be operated by the same team, as both distilleries fall under the Brown Forman umbrella (together with also Glendronach). So, when whisky is produced at the one, the other is silent. Let’s just say that this is better than no production at all. In Campbeltown, Springbank and Glengyle distilleries have been worked like that for quite a few years now. The good news for Glenglassaugh is that now you can see proper bottles on the shelf at your retailer. And these bottles do look beautiful, don’t they?
Glenglassaugh Portsoy, bottled at 49,1 % abv
First things first: Bottled in 2023, this Glenglassaugh is made up from a combination of sherry, bourbon and port casks, from “richly peated” stock. A coastal malt indeed, the name referring to the nearby harbour village. A visit to Glenglassaugh will impress you, so idyllic.
Upon Sipping: Is it “Portsoy” of “soy sauce”, because the smells coming from the glass are distinctly flavoured and offers a little of everything. I appreciate the red fruit scented ashes, which feel very balanced. Indeed, the smoky side of this Glenglassaugh Portsoy puts a firm stamp on the character of the expression. The taste presents a creamy texture, but light candied chocolate is dominant, with the smoke circling confidently around all these impressions. It is quite a rough one, I have to say, the excellent bottling strength presents more of a challenge. This is not your everyday sipper. Still, on repeated sips, you get used to it. Then it slides in quite nicely, but always with a good peaty kick on the exit. The port is experienced through a dry note, mostly on the finish, while the sherry and bourbon present more of a fruity side on the palate. The style is not entirely unlike what you can find in Old Pulteney, and I suspect lovers of that brand will find great pleasure in this Glenglassaugh. Who explains to me the difference between maritime malt and coastal malt, because this one has a little bit of both. Water can be avoided for this bottling, by the way.
Word to the Wise: The pricing on this bottling is a bit ambitious, given that it is a no age statement bottling, but one must admit this Glenglassaugh Portsoy has a lot of backbone. Very well put together, the name of Rachel Barrie on the label is justified. The port is not too loud, which is good.
Score: 84 points.