Back to the 1990s with some rare malt whiskies
We accumulated some samples of single malt whiskies that were distilled in the 1990s and decided to put them all in one blog. This decade was a weird one, not only in world history, but also in the Scotch whisky industry, with weird closure of distilleries and at the same time classic names coming back online. For example, we lost these true dark horse distilleries like Lochside and Littlemill, the former of which I have not seen a new bottling from in years, while the latter gained cult status among aficionados of the tropical fruit malts. In 1997, the Ardbeg distillery received a new lease of life when it was bought by Glenmorangie. Campbeltown came back to life. Independent bottlers and big brands started releasing legends like the Rare Malts Selection (Diageo) or Old Malt Cask by the Laing family, to name just two out of many. I am sure the 1990s cemented the big surge that would follow in the first quarter of the 21th century, that is finally now cooling down. Coming from the dreary 1980s and the years of the Whisky Loch, the decade we feature today might well be one of the more influential in the history of Scotch. So, at random, we throw some samples at you, including two from demolished distilleries!
Tormore 1990, 12 years old, bottled at 65,9 % abv by Blackadder
First things first: Tormore rocket fuel from Refill Hogshead # 1964 that produced 278 bottles and a hint of cask residue. Distilled on 2 February 1990 and bottled in April 2002 which is an amazing 24 years ago by the time you read this.
Upon Sipping: I am not sticking my nose in the glass, I have more to do, but the whiffs of vanilla are of course undeniable. We will look for nuances later, first a suicidal sip. A creamy arrival on the palate that is totally forward on vanilla indeed, with a burning hot yellow apple as a support act. We diluted it to roughly 50 % abv. It does not do much else than offer more vanilla and apples. Maybe some pastille to suck on, a hard candy. The taste is more grassy now, with some oaky notes that are pleasant. It remains peppery hot.
Word to the Wise: It was a different time perhaps, but I do not understand why this Tormore was ever convicted to the glass. Dead whisky that picked up a little vanilla but not much else. This probably would have made a fantastic 40 years old in 2030.
Score: 77 points.
Littlemill 1990, 26 years old, bottled at 53,8 % by Archives together with CasQueteers
First things first: Cask # 32 was a hogshead that produced 267 bottles and was filed in the “Voyage dans l’Amérique Méridionale” series by Archives. Distilled on 20 December 1990 and bottled on 4 April 2017, today exactly 9 years ago!
Upon Sipping: With an average of almost exactly 90 points, this Littlemill comes under the pressure of high expectations. No worries, I know it is good, I tasted it before, but for this blog we had to make an official note. When you stick your nose in the glass, it is certainly not a one trick pony that showers you with a tropical fruit salad. It offers more nuance than that actually, with an old wooden drawer full of candy to begin with. Cotton candy too, lots of sugars, every dentist’s nightmare. Taking a sip brings more of the expected tropical fruitiness, with a quite hard mouthfeel and a surprisingly strong finish, that is full blown Costa Rica in a glass. More grassy with water, but also minty fresh. This is the moment you either fall in love or discover you don’t have a heart. Like sniffing the hair of my wife when she is just out of the shower using all kinds of hair masks and shampoos and conditioner. You see, I get my references everywhere. On the tongue, the water has neutralized some kick, which is a pity, but in return we get a bit more honeyed liquorice and creamy caramel. The finish is now all on mango and pineapple tin can juice. Lovely, in short!
Word to the Wise: We will add another 90 points to the average on this. It is simply perfect. I could have done with some more complexity to really elevate it, but that is nitpicking of course. Littlemill was the biggest surprise to emerge from the 1990s whisky landscape, wasn’t it?
Score: 90 points.
Clynelish 1992, 10 years old, bottled at 45 % abv by Gordon & MacPhail
First things first: This is a Clynelish bottled for Tanners Wines in Shrewsbury, UK. I have visited this town near the Welsh border, a delightful place!
Upon Sipping: A delightfully nostalgic bottle, just a simple label and some good Scotch inside. Well, we are going to find out if the latter is true of course. Usually, I walk in a big circle around 1992 Clynelish. These were the years that they did something extensive cleaning that is said to have taken away the waxy character of Clynelish. It was restored soon after, but early 1990s Clynelish is something to approach with caution. Indeed, the nose on this 1992 vintage sample also has this vase water/cleaning cloth smell. The cask masks it well, and I actually low-key like the result of it. The taste is rather sweet, with little raisins and blueberries on the mid-palate. On the finish, we again meet this dry rubber-like experience. On repeated sniffing, I can imagine being in a swimming pool with a waffle under my nose. I would almost say this is classic early nineties Clynelish, but that would be wrong, because most of them are not good, and this is quite okay. But you need to like weird quirks and sounds in your whisky.
Word to the Wise: An interesting example of Clynelish without waxy notes, from a notorious era in the history of the distillery.
Score: 82 points.
Imperial 1996, 25 years old, bottled at 53,6 % abv by Watt Whisky
First things first: Mark Watt’s whisky company is actually named Campbeltown Whisky Company Ltd. but I do not know if this is widely known. Anyway, a 1996 vintage from the now demolished Imperial distillery, on the grounds where the Dalmunach Distillery has risen. Matured for 25 years in a refill barrel, bottled in 2021, it yielded 214 bottles.
Upon Sipping: This is what people call a “critically acclaimed bottle”, and that seems justified when you start nosing. Fruity soul, all on peaches and tangerines. Rather shy, so we move on to the tasting. It has this nice mix of orange zest and oaky bitterness on the tongue, with a more tropical fruity side to round things off. I like the wood spices on this Imperial, it even creates the illusion of something smoky. With water, the Imperial turns even more exuberant, with plenty of waxiness and honey drizzle on a good loaf of lemon cake. The water turns the whisky in a fruit juice, with is certainly not something we dislike! It is not this over the top fruit bombs that we know from the 1970s giants, but the subtle audacity of this Watt Whisky Imperial is just out there!
Word to the Wise: A must find bottle.
Score: 90 points.
Ardbeg 1996, 9 years old, bottled at 53,1 % abv by Gordon & MacPhail
First things first: Bottled in the Spirit of Scotland series, that is celebrating a revival I understand, tasting notes coming soon from new releases. This Ardbeg was distilled on 1 April 1996 (that was exactly 30 years ago, just last Wednesday) and bottled on 1 September 2005. Cask # 937 produced 365 bottles.
Upon Sipping: Dry summer peat, with hey and grasses to the foreground. If I am not mistaken, this is production from maintenance runs done by the Laphroaig Distillery team, just to keep the equipment in some form of shape. It misses some fruitiness, perhaps someone forgot to switch on the purifier on the stills while making this. What you get is a very pure, crystalline malt, barley forward with a good dose of maritime character. On the tongue, vanilla and lemons fight for the spotlight. Not too raw on the peat, but incredibly big on brine. Oily mouthfeel, saline impressions, and coating everything it touches with peat.
Word to the Wise: Dangerously drinkable, and extremely straightforward in what it delivers. This is sheer Islay power. When it works, it works well.
Score: 88 points.