Talisker 10 years old – The Old Map Label
Talisker is an incredible stronghold in the single malt whisky category, but to me it always seems like a whispered secret. With its outspoken volcanic character, you would expect this to be a whisky for the acquired taste, for the trained palate. But the numbers tell another story: a large group of whisky drinkers love it! Talisker is one of the six Classic Malts, a concept that Diageo launched in 1988. The climb of Talisker to the top started there. Even though it has never come close to the numbers of Glenfiddich, Glenlivet or Macallan, with a current seventh place it belongs to the top 10 of best sold single malt whisky in the world. I am sure that not being the only distillery on Skye anymore does not hurt in the slightest. Talisker remains an attractive brand to follow, and the flagship 10 years old is a monument for consistent quality. I admit I have not tasted it in a while, I should get round to that! In the meantime, in one of the sample networks online, I came across an older bottling of this trusted 10 years old, with the so-called “old map label”. Eager to try, eager to share my thoughts! In the meantime we keep following the news if a new Talisker distillery will be built, that will double the size of output. In the current climate, it might become a long-term plan.
Talisker 10 years, bottled circa 1998 at 45,8 % abv
First things first: The Whiskybase page claims this is a label preceding the Classic Malts era, but that is wrong, as the Classic Malts were created in the late 1980s. My guess would be this is an early to mid 1990s bottling, considering the 70 cl size.
Upon Sipping: Whatever the provenance, this Talisker smells fantastic! Brine and fruit mix remarkably well, I have to say, turning this into a fruit-driven smoky soup. With time, the maritime side of this Talisker Old Map Label turns up the volume, fueled by sunflower oil. The smokiness is a lot more subdued compared to modern-day Talisker, which at times cosplays as Islay malt. The expressions in the Special Releases are known for that. Taking a sip, the more briny side takes control of the overall character, with lots of farmy notes of oats and seaweed around your sushi roll. With this older expression of the trusted Talisker 10, you notice how times have changed. This echoes the entire production cycle, with the charming stills, purifiers, return pipes and the wormtubs, leaving room for the spirit to speak. In the modern version, the casks are louder than they should be, even though the result is a damn good whisky. The oiliness of this old Talisker is really satisfying. The traditional peppery character is mostly noticeable on the finish, where it lingers for minutes. With a little water, we release a lot more peat smoke and vanilla, that is interesting. Now we have an Islay cousin. Some lemons on the nose, more vanilla but also some liquorice on the tongue, but always this island vibe crossing through all the layers. The one thing missing, to me, is a little more oomph. The modern-day Talisker delivers that in spades of course.
Word to the Wise: Most times people speak of the 1960s and 1970s to experience an older style of malt, but this Talisker from the early 1990s also has a story to tell. About spirit versus cask management. The spirit gets a lot of room in this bottling, and I prefer it like that. This is a very easy sipping whisky that delivers complexity if you want to look for it, like a treasure!.
Score: 89 points.