Aberfeldy: sherry monster versus 1970s elegance
Recently, I got my hands on an older sample of the Aberfeldy Distillery. Normally, I would build a blog around that, with some background, before leading up to such a sample. However, I got my hands on a very recent Aberfeldy as well, so why not combine the two and make this a proper old versus new tasting? The first will be the modern one, but I am sad to say this is an example that carries the disease of “the darker, the better”. The second one is a 1970s expression.
Aberfeldy is of course the single malt closely associated with the Dewar’s blended Scotch, most notably the famous White Label. I visited the distillery all the way back in 2006, when there were whispers of J.K. Rowling living just across the road or at least nearby. I don’t know if that was ever true, and who cares, since she turned into such a nasty person. Maybe she always was, but hopefully not for lack of drinking Aberfeldy. I remember walking in the hills behind the distillery, hoping to find some gold leaves in the water, as it is said to contain. The distillery itself was by then already well equipped to service tourists, and we got a decent tour. Time for a new visit, I would say, maybe next time.
It is interesting to know that the Dewar family established Aberfeldy in 1896 but only owned the distillery for just shy of 30 years. In 1925 DCL (now Diageo) took over. The blended brands are still going strong though, even today, with a place in the top 10 of most sold Scotch whisky in the world. Aberfeldy as a single malt is also not the most unknown brand anymore, with a decent range of bottlings. The standard 12 years old is a friendly dram on any day.
Aberfeldy 14 years old, vintage 2011, bottled at 61,1 % abv by Gordon & MacPhail
First things first: This must have flown right off the shelf when it came out. Matured in a first fill sherry butt and therefore dark as the night just before the dawn. Cask # 5609 produced a whopping 604 bottles in the Spirit of Scotland range. Bottled in 2025.
Upon Sipping: I am a bit worried though. Enough colour, but with such a high abv, did the cask breathe properly? On first nosing (which is not actually me sticking my nose in the glass but just waving it under it) we pick up deep, dark chocolate notes. Some cigar leaves and hints of red fruit. Hopefully this stays the same after adding some water, but first we will attempt a sip. Oh damn, this is dryer than a grain of sand in the Sahara desert. My whole mouth contracts like putting salt on a snail. My oh my. Besides that: wood. We threw in a big splash of water, hoping for the better. Still not easy to nose this dram. More chocolate. Diluted, this is much better to savour, with hints of red fruit on the tongue, but not enough to totally push away the wooded notes. Still, enjoyable. The finish is surprisingly soft, almost leaving no mark at all. In the end, some more pronounced strawberry emerges. With even more water, we pick up a light wood smoke, which adds some complexity. The palate becomes pleasantly creamy, but now also carries a tinge of something metallic. Yes, this is a sherry monster, but let’s face it, this is all rather predictable and slightly boring.
Word to the Wise: One has to ask what the idea was behind this bottling. It certainly carries some attributes that are likeable, but overall this is not a good cask. There is unbalance and generally a too dry, wooded, over the top character. The high abv is always an indication of something being off. This Aberfeldy (I forgot I had Aberfeldy in the glass) proves that.
Score: 81 points.
Aberfeldy 30 years old, vintage 1974, bottled at 59,5% abv by Scotch Single Malt Circle
First things first: Granted, another very high abv, certainly after 30 years. But as we have seen with bottlings in the Rare Malts Selection, this was more common back then. Cask # 2186 produced 236 bottles in May 2004
Upon Sipping: Take me to the candyshop! But not only that, there are also flowers, freshly blooming or just put in the vase. Pieces of fruit in a bowl in the kitchen on a hot summer day, little flies already seeing a chance to have a nibble. A painter is getting ready to make a still life out of this. The sun breaks through the window glass in a distorted colour. Poetic stuff. On the tongue you will notice the alcohol kick, but it is also rich in vanilla and mango. Nice, oily mouthfeel. With a modest dash of water the nose gains a minty, grassy aroma. Light candle wax and soft wood notes. Touches of honey. It keeps on developing, not with new attributes, but with intensity. With water, the palate also becomes more waxy, something we do appreciate in our single malts, so happy happy happy!
Word to the Wise: A classic powerhouse from a bourbon cask. Ticks all the boxes and delivers (tropical) fruit, candy and grassy character. Allround brilliance.
Score: 91 points.