Tobermory: A rocky history but a delicate whisky
The Tobermory Distillery on the Isle of Mull was founded in 1798, or so the label states. The history is however rather rocky. You could even say that Tobermory has never been truly out of the woods before 1989, or even 1993, when Burn Steward Distillers bought the distillery. Since then there have been more takeovers, but Tobermory kept on purring through the years, making a fine unpeated spirit and a very much appreciated peated spirit that is sold under the name Ledaig. I understand that in recent years the distillery has been experimenting with different fermentation times. We are curious to see what comes of that. In the meantime, we drink old and new stuff, like we do today. There is not much to report on the shaky history of Tobemory, other than it was closed and/or silent more often than producing whisky. This has resulted in some legendary stuff, like the early 1970s output that can compete with household names like Brora and Ardbeg. Nowadays, especially the Ledaig single malt output is often compared to Ardbeg. And the very delicately peated Tobermory? Maybe that is incomparable, but we will give it a try!
Tobermory – Green Dumpy Bottle, bottled at 40 % abv
First things first: A beautiful classic dumpy bottle from the 1990s, a style that suits the rugged Mull landscape of solitude, mountains and sea lochs. No information about the contents, not even an age statement, however a 10 years old similar bottle was on the market too.
Upon Sipping: A surprisingly fruity element upon first sniff, but then lots of malted barley just waiting to be shoved into the kiln. Sweet vanilla, lychees, some citrus and maybe the tiniest wee bit of turf. Not unlike the Bunnahabhain in the similar bottle. Before I take a sip a whiff of sea air reaches my nose. Delightful. The sip reveals that same breeze of peat mid-palate, coupled with some lemon infusion. The finish has a touch of heather on it. And some soap, but I blame that on this being an old bottle at 40 % abv, it had to suffer somewhere. In fact, when I first tasted Tobermory from a similar bottle, some 20 years ago, I remember it to be much more fierce. But maybe everything was, to an untrained palate. Water brings out some beautiful light farmy notes and freshens up the finish with a lime influence that makes it very island-like in style.
Word to the Wise: This is just a lovely bottling, very nostalgic, with elements of soft peat and sea air as soon as you pour this beauty in the glass. Rounded and balanced, this is the modest style from a whisky flying very much under the radar back in the day. A hidden gem.
Score: 80 points.
Peallach 2015, 9 years old, bottled at 46 % abv by PerfectDram
First things first: Distilled on 2 December 2015 and bottled on 10 October 2025 after maturing in a fresh bourbon barrel, this is a Tobermory just shy of 10 years old for Friends of PerfectDram. We count ourselves among them! Cask # 165 produced 200 bottles of 0,5 l.
Upon Sipping: Oh my, how interesting, but this is astonishingly similar to the previous sample, with those light hints of vanilla, lemon and peat. This might come off as more modern, with juicy waxes and a stronger maritime signature, but other than that … the same! And that with easily thirty years apart. A citrus freshness almost like a sherbet covers the tongue, with hints of peat and warm barley. On the finish is where this Tobermory leaves the NAS-expression behind. A lot more punch, despite it just being 46 % abv. With a drop of water, this Tobermory also known as Peallach reveals more farmy notes, which I love. The sherbet ice cream vibe brings a smile to my face. The lovely and light peat handshake on the exit is a pleasant goodbye.
Word to the Wise: This Tobermory is nothing stellar, but as an everyday dram goes, this is a friendly and entertaining one, which I believe was totally the purpose!
Score: 85 points.