Brora, Clynelish and Dornoch, easy as (A)BCD
The announcement that Brora Distillery would reopen could have been the most spectacular news for any whisky nerd in this world. The fact that it happened in the tail end of the biggest whisky boom since the late 1960s/early 1970s, and possible even since the end of the 19th century, felt a bit anticlimactic. Lots of projects preceded the development, and it always felt that those were much more daring than for Diageo to risk a safe bet with Brora (and Port Ellen on Islay). Looking at the resurrection of Glenglassaugh some 20 years ago, now that was a gamble. Or starting from scratch with something totally new, like Daftmill, Dornoch, Ardnamurchan or Wolfburn, that took a lot of guts. Maybe I overlooked the impact of the reopening of Brora, maybe I was put off by the releases of a few more financially unobtainable bottles, or the ticket prices for a tour at the new but historic site. But it seems all went by like a sea breeze. Perhaps because oligarchs and crypto traders and oil business people do not write blogs about how great the newly released Brora’s were. And “ordinary people” who would love to, simply cannot reach it. Yeah, it is sometimes heartbreaking to see what some corners of the whisky industry have become.
Luckily, we still have our trusted sample drawer, and daring bottlers who are not afraid to challenge the more geeky end of the whisky spectrum. We rounded up three samples with ties to the Sutherland whisky heritage, including a blended Scotch that contains a lot of Clynelish made in the distillery that now carries the name Brora (again). In the future, I do hope to visit Brora and Port Ellen, and be forced to eat my words in the first paragraph of this blog. But as an outsider looking in, I felt I had to write about my feelings. I know I am not alone.
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Glen Brora Specially Selected Scotch, bottled at 40 % abv
First things first: Supposedly, this blend contains at least 50 percent malt content from the old Clynelish distillery, which in the 1970s distilled peated spirit under the name Brora until 1983. This Glen Brora was put on the market in the 1960s and 1970s by a company called Carradale, which was a sister company of Ainslie & Heilbron, the proprietor of Clynelish. This bottled was created for importer M. di Chiano from Milan.
Upon Sipping: The character is influenced by some Old Bottle Effect (OBE), creating an idea of sweetened mushrooms. Also, soup, of course, or rather bouillon cubes. The aroma is gentle with some fruity notes from juicy oranges but also brine and light hints of peat. The palate is creamed with a very oily liquid and lots more peaty character. Some copper coins. I cannot imagine a lot of grain whisky was used to create this blend. There is a strong malty backbone. This is serious drinking. I have tasted precious few old Clynelish, but from far away memory, I indeed recognise the typical oily, honeyed Clynelish of yesteryear.
The drinking remains the best aspect of this Glen Brora. There is an abundance of caramel and fudge to be picked up in here. After some breathing, the nose falls flat a little. Maybe that is the only weakness from the 40% abv, that is not felt anywhere else. This drinks as a 46 % abv whisky easily.
Word to the Wise: Impressive old stuff. An old forefather of the Sutherland Blended Malt that we will taste further on? Why not!
Score: 88 points
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Clynelish 2011, 12 years old, bottled at 48,4 % abv by Douglas Laing
First things first: Distilled in January 2011, exactly 14 years ago, and matured in refill hogshead DL 18173 to be bottled in August 2023. The outturn was 381 bottles in the Old Particular series.
Upon Sipping: Quite an outturn for a single hogshead, so I am guessing this abv was brought down a bit to this excellent drinking strength. An übertypical Clynelish with loads of paraffin, candles, and a dry fruity tang. Very talkative. This single malt shows that old age is not needed to be brilliant. There is minted vanilla and light peach in the background too. Lovely nose. What a delight to have this very unbothered Clynelish in the glass. There is little influence from the cask, so a big chance to savour the liquid. The waxy palate parks us firmly in Sutherland. The taste is maybe a bit too middle of the road, but when executed so well, there is little left to desire. It is not too much a vanilla bomb though, with there being lots of soft white grapes and peaches to play with. The finish is classic Clynelish, all on wax.
Word to the Wise: Just a brilliantly executed Clynelish. This bottle will go dry in an instant.
Score: 87 points.
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Distilled in Sutherland, 5 years old, bottled at 48,5 % abv by Phil & Simon Thompson
First things first: A blend of malt whisky from the Brora (very little, we suspect), Clynelish and Dornoch distilleries, all located in Sutherland. With an outturn of 1.020 bottles, this follows earlier versions of this concept, which gathered quite a following already. This batch size is bigger though. The youngest whisky in the blend is mentioned on the label, being 5 years old.
Upon Sipping: A very fruity example here, with the Dornoch spirit easily detectable with its signature oranges and juicy fruit flavours. It matches well with the more vanilla’d waxy notes of the Clynelish in there. It is a wonderful experience to taste a combination of such an artisan whisky as Dornoch mixed with one of the highest regarded blending malts that is Clynelish. The taste brings out more fruit, with grapes and peaches and a hint of bitterness from an apple that has been on the table too long. A bit mushy, I would say. Having tasted quite a few Dornoch single casks, I am surprised how much of that distillate is dominant in this blend. Elevated by the Clynelish component, which must have come from refill casks, as to create backbone enough for the Dornoch element to shine.
If you never had a chance to drink Dornoch, you should look for this bottle, it comes very close. With water, the fruit becomes more explosive but never turns a tropical corner, the spirit speaks volumes here. Some bitterness emerges too. The oily mouthfeel coats the tongue.
Word to the Wise: Artisan whisky, even when blended with the more industrious Clynelish. This Sutherland proves so many things at once: Dornoch is fantastic spirit that holds its own inside a blend, Clynelish fits like a glove despite being a mass produced single malt, and for the Brora in this bottle … let’s just say it brings some soul to the end result.
Score: 88 points.
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