Ardbeg fun and Ardbeg brilliance in one blog
As whisky blogger, you need to pay attention to what you have already tasted. For today’s final Feis Ile blog, I put ready a sample of an Ardbeg that I actually tasted last year already. I found a closed up sample of it in my drawer, so I am guessing that I accidentally ordered two of the same. Not that I feel bad about that, that was excellent stuff. In fact, I started looking out for 2009 single cask Ardbeg, most times undisclosed of course, but with an anagram or badger on the label, it is not hard to decipher. Anyway, what to taste for this blog then? Well, while cleaning out my old whisky cabinet to replace it for a new (and bigger) one, I came across my bottle of the Ardbeg Traigh Bhan 19 years old. This first batch has been followed by a few more releases over the years, and it was recently announced that the most recent release will also be the last. To me, the Traigh Bhan releases signalled a return to form for Ardbeg, with more age stated releases. Time to revisit it. But we also throw in a NAS-release with an interesting cask treatment, to see what that will offer us.
Happy Ardbeg Day and thanks for reading my blogs during the Feis Ile week!
Ardbeg Anamorphic, Committee Release, bottled at 48,2 % abv
First things first: Let us elaborate: the casks have their heads removed and those were deeply scored. With infra-red, these heads were then toasted. Yes, you read that correctly. Next up are the casks, heavily and aggressively charred. Only after all this, the Ardbeg spirit was poured in. Ardbeg calls the process the “high mocha” treatment. The only thing sadly missing from the explainer that I found, is HOW LONG the spirit matured in the cask. Call me old-fashioned, but that is something essential for me.
Upon Sipping: This could be called “designer Ardbeg”, but we got used to those over the years. On this Anamorphic, the overtly peaty nose is sacrificed to make way for more chocolate and indeed mocha notes. Yeah, the peat smoke is very subtle, but undeniably also there. Nice variation on a well-known theme. Mission accomplished so far. Picking up some nice minty notes too. Taking a sip, there is no denying that this Ardbeg was kept under a dripping chocolate fountain. Very present, almost too much so, but when you come up with a gimmick, it needs to be felt. For lovers of peat, I do feel the bite of this Ardbeg comes off really strong, very muscled, not unlike the Alligator expression released in 2011. That one was much more naked and really displayed the PPM involved. Here it revolves mostly around the cask. You can solve that by adding some water. The more maritime side of Ardbeg does come out then, and feels more familiar.
Then also more wood smoke, as if someone built a fireplace from the logs he just collected. The taste with water more definitely leans towards soft caramel and mocha, but always with a smoky twist.
Word to the Wise: A very well executed experiment, that leaves enough room for the spirit but puts the cask treatment in the centre spotlight. Fun stuff, in keeping with Ardbeg Day traditions.
Score: 86 points.
Ardbeg Traigh Bhan, 19 years old batch 1, bottled at 46,2 % abv
First things first: Ardbeg distilled in the year 2000, and bottled 19 years later after maturing in American Oak and Oloroso Sherry casks. This is batch 1. The labels says TB/01-15.03.00/19.MH.
Upon Sipping: For such a light-coloured Ardbeg, I find it hard to believe a lot of sherry casks were used for this vatting. Everything on second fill then? Small Batch Release. From the same vintage as the Ardbeg Y2K, maturing in a same cask recipe. I found that one austere, but let’s see how this one goes down. Oh yeah, this is lovely straight from the start, offering a fruity peat nose, but much more elegant and subtle than the Y2K. Juice from the tin pineapple can, that you spilled on your fingers just after stuffing the fireplace with fresh wood. Some ashes, some maritime whiffs, but mostly very classic Ardbeg in style. Menthol cigarettes on repeated sniffing. Taking a sip, the fruity notes continue to dominate the palate, and the mouthfeel is very silky. Only on the finish does the peat takes a bite at you, but it is very welcome and satisfying. The six years in the glass also did some mellowing here. Balance and style is of an incredible nature in this Ardbeg Traigh Bhan. These were the bottles to stock up. I tasted a later batch (# 3) that I scored at 88 points, but this goes well over the 90 mark line. Now, what about those sherry casks? There are undeniably some raisins to be found, but the peat has covered them up quite nicely. They have become subtle side notes to the main show, which consists of fruit and delicate but talkative peat influences.
Word to the Wise: The Ardbeg Anamorphic is for children, but this Ardbeg Traigh Bhan is for adults who have a deeper wallet and also deeper understanding of what decently matured and rather crystalline peated Islay whisky is truly about. This is absolutely brilliant stuff.
Score: 91 points.