A trio of independently bottled Ardmore
Ardmore is a very popular distillery among aficionados as it offers a good twist on regular Highland and more fierce Speyside single malts. This is, of course, famously caused by a light but very pronounced peating level for this gigantic distillery. The location of Ardmore is somewhat to the south of Huntly, but through a whisky lens you could say rather in no man’s land. When it comes to official releases, I still remember the introduction of one of the first, some twenty years ago. I believe it was in 2006 or 2007 that we were invited to the famous attic of Dutch whisky importer Van Wees in Amersfoort, and the Traditional Cask expression was released. Since then, we have not been spoiled too much with a core range to drool over. For variety and excitement, we therefor turn to independent bottlers, and we found samples of three different ones in our drawer.
Ardmore 2012, 12 years old, bottled at 53,3 % abv by The Caskhound
First things first: Distilled on 26 June 2012 and bottled on 19 August 2024. This Ardmore was finished for 12 months in a first-fill PX cask with the number 803810. Outturn was 200 bottles. A release aimed at the German market.
Upon Sipping: The cask finish leaves a strong mark on this Ardmore, mostly resulting in gunpowder smells. Some spices, but little room for anything else. The PX is outstaying its welcome from the get-go. The taste is more to my liking, starting off sweetened before a bitter hint from the peated DNA of Ardmore shines through. On the finish, this Caskhound expression is quite aggressive. The peat is most noticeable here, and gives a nice fire that will warm you through long winter nights. We added some water to see if we can find some nuance. Not on the nose though. The palate feels more balanced now, which is a good thing, but a raw wooded note makes the house of cards tremble. The finish has become even more rough and drying.
Word to the Wise: Not the best example of Ardmore, mostly because there is little Ardmore soul left in this expression. It has attractive sides, for sure if you like aggressive, unnuanced whisky, but it is not without flaws either.
Score: 80 points.
Ardmore 2008, 13 years old, bottled at 52,4 % abv by Goldfinch Whisky Merchants
First things first: Distilled in December 2008 and matured in a first-fill oloroso sherry cask. The outturn was 350 bottles. Bottled in The Kilnsman’s Dram series by this bottler.
Upon Sipping: This expression does not mention a finish, so I am assuming this is full maturation. The colour in the glass is rather light for that, but who knows? Ah, but nosing this Ardmore is a lot more fun. Strong hints of caramel and fudge with a layer of cigarette smoke over it. Charmingly reminiscent of the times both my parents still smoked in the house. Gotta love the 1980s and 1990s, eh? After some breathing I pick up hints of ozone. Always a funny note to come across. There seems to be a sweetness under all these layers, that does not really break through. The mouthfeel is surprisingly soft, especially compared to the Caskhound expression. It all sums up with chocolatey notes, the caramel and fudge continuing in a straight line from start to finish. It results in a linear, relatively simple Ardmore, but it does demand some concentration. The abv gives a kick that we will try to tame with some water. That works, but only mildly.
Word to the Wise: A one trick Ardmore, but doing the trick well. No high flyer but more pleasant to experience. Has more nuance but lacks the cheeky side of the Caskhound.
Score: 81 points.
Ardmore 1997, 24 years old, bottled at 49,6 % abv by the WhiskyNerds
First things first: Distilled on 6 November 1997 and bottled on 28 October 2022, just a few days shy of being a 25 years old. The whisky matured in hogshead # 901451 and the outturn was 258 bottles.
Upon Sipping: This sample was actually tasted in a flight of older Ardbeg that aged for more than 20 years (blog coming next week). This Ardmore is hardly less peaty than those Islay expressions, but certainly a more (tropical) fruity beast. Takes some time to open up, but when it does is becomes very complex, with minty notes on the one hand and fruit gummy bears on the other. Pineapple juice and pineapple crust. The mellow smoke keeps this single malt bound together. Taking a sip, the palate is really covered with a fruity creamy sensation, nice wood and milky chocolate. On the finish, I really enjoy the wood notes, that play nice with the smoky element that Ardmore offers. The whisky is lightly peated, but even at almost 25 years the smoke is still noticeable as a key player in the composition of this whisky. Funny thing about this whisky is that I own(ed) a bottle and sipped from it quite often. The whisky is always the same, no matter what the mood. This stability and continuity in development, even now from an open bottle, is very admirable.
Word to the Wise: A future classic and one of the highlights in the range of WhiskyNerds bottlings. If you like your whisky fruity but do not mind when other flavours come peek around the corner, then this is the one to spring for.
Score: 91 points.
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