Pleased to get better acquainted with Auchroisk
Speyside is a region where you can stumble upon a distillery at every corner and crossroad. Here you will find some of the most legendary names in the whisky world. The other side is that the region is also home to quite some workhorses, or should I say: ugly ducklings? I do not know many people whose heart will skip a beat on hearing the name Auchroisk (and that is assuming you know how to pronounce it). This is one of the latter day distilleries build in the 1970s and even though over 50 years old, considered a “newer” one by industry standards. The whisky boom of the 21st century put this in perspective of course.
With an output of nearly 6 million litres per year, Auchroisk is a big producer in the Diageo portfolio and mostly providing malt backbone to blends like J&B. An interesting fact is, however, that the name “Singleton” was first used to promote this very single malt whisky. Indeed, in the 1980s we saw the debut of The Singleton of Auchroisk. This series was eventually retired, but later resurrected with global success, as the collective name for Glendullan, Dufftown and Glen Ord in American, European and Asian markets. Not bad for a name that was concocted to work around the unpronounceable name of the Auchroisk Distillery.
Auchroisk 10 years old, bottled at 43 % abv
First things first: Auchroisk is no longer bottled under the Singleton banner and is instead released with an own version in the so-called Flora & Fauna series. The first release was in 2001, but today we taste a 2022 version of the bottling. Remember, the name Flora & Fauna was once suggested by famed whisky writer Michael Jackson, but is not an official name for the series.
Upon Sipping: It is assumed that Auchroisk is mostly made with a nutty or malty character, but Diageo can order specifics if they want to for their blends. Sticking my nose in the glass, I indeed get a more caramelized smell leaning towards burned cashew nuts. It comes off a little hot, despite the low abv, so I am expecting a feisty confrontation here. Taking a sip, I am not let down by the frivolous play on the palate. Fruitier than expected, with a good dose of nutty/bitter hints. Lots of vanilla too, as this is very straightforward Speyside single malt. The finish is hot and a tad alcoholic, but all in all indeed fierce and muscled. This is certainly recommendable as a daily dram, not unlike another favourite of mine, the Knockando. Water turns this Auchroisk into more of a floral and grassy character, but it swims well. Some hints of damp forest too, which shows the complexity of this malt. The sweetness on the palate is more pronounced and very pleasantly fresh. The malt is really shining in this whisky, and I love that. The finish is more nutty with a drop of water. Very nice.
Word to the Wise: The Flora & Fauna series always delivers, and this Auchroisk is no exception. It is accessible, friendly priced, relative complex and very rewarding. A good daily dram.
Score: 83 points.
Auchroisk 16 years old, bottled at 57,9 % abv by Signatory Vintage
First things first: A bottling in the Symington’s Choice series, this is cask # 4 (there is also a bottling of sister cask # 6), distilled on 20 September 2008 and bottled on 19 February 2025. The whisky received a finish in a first fill Pedro Ximénez hogshead. A total of 339 bottles were released.
Upon Sipping: Nutty, malty whisky combined with a sherry cask known for its sweetness. It seems to cancel out each other’s weaknesses, and makes for a meaty, strong floral (roses) nose. After a while, the sherry cask seems to take the upper hand. Some concentrated raspberry juice fills the nose. Again, a rather fierce character in the glass here! Taking an (undiluted) sip, the sweetness hits even before it touches the tongue. After that sweet and subtle entry, it is full throttle towards a more leathery mouthfeel, quite dry too. Some hotness on the finish, but not bothersome. It lacks some of the elegance we did find in the Flora & Fauna expression. With water, the nose becomes even more expressive, which is very attractive. It turns into a classic sherry monster here, so if you are into that, this is your go-to bottle. Some cigar leaves are added to the fold, and the Auchroisk displays nice complexity. The taste has turned more bitter, that is a pity, and some imbalance is sadly throwing this Auchroisk off course, but it remains quite fierce and nice to tumble and twirl with. The alcohol hotness is something to overcome.
Word to the Wise: Interesting but ultimately not flawless whisky, one you can fight with all evening and come out quite satisfied. The rough edges shaves off a few points, but still this is a good bottle of Speyside single malt whisky.
Score: 85 points.
Auchroisk 24 years old, 1989 – 2014, bottled at 57,5 % abv
First things first: A small batch bottling of mature Auchroisk aged in sherry butts. Exactly 1140 bottles were produced in this nice series by Cadenhead’s. Bottled in March 2014.
Upon Sipping: Opens up with hints of burned coffee and quite a fierce alcohol hotness, not unlike the Signatory. Turns even a little to the spicy, almost sulphury side. The high abv (even after almost 25 years in the casks) stands in the way of a deep dive into this Auchroisk. Taking a sip, there is no denying this is very hot, and the by now classic nuttiness emerges in full power here. This bottling certainly needs a drop of water. The nose offers little more, so remains closed, but on the palate there are now more sweet notes that are very enjoyable. I kept on adding water, to see where it would take us. Only after a few good splashes, does this Auchroisk start to show some elegance. The nutty character, all on almonds and hazelnuts, is really so detectable, that it was fun to start this session with the Flora & Fauna and see the progression, no matter at what age you taste this rather peculiar single malt.
Word to the Wise: In the end, it reached a decent score, but Auchroisk is a very difficult whisky! Even at 24 years of age, it remains very tight and austere. Maybe this particular single malt shines better in bourbon casks, so the spirit does not have to fight with the sherry influences. We will check that out in the future, to see if this Ugly Duckling will ever turn into a swan. (Many thanks to Sanjeev for the sample!)
Score: 81 points.
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