Glen Garioch single malt from the early 1990s
Glen Garioch is perhaps the least known of the three Morrison Bowmore owned distilleries, that also includes the Bowmore Distillery on Islay and the recently revamped Glaswegian facility of Auchentoshan. All of them are now actually part of Beam Suntory, making it one big family with the Ardmore and Laphroaig Distilleries. The Japanese side of the ownership, we understand, is not shy of experimenting with different distilling styles, for instance longer fermentation and direct firing of the stills. It is interesting to see if this will drastically change the taste of modern Glen Garioch in the bottle. The official range is something of a dark horse to me, since I am sensitive to soapy characteristics in whisky, which I usually pick up in this single malt. Obviously, the legends of the late 1960s and 1970s are far behind us. In fact, this 1971 Glen Garioch is only one of a total six whiskies in my life that I scored 96 points. A unicorn, if you can find it.
Today, we taste a vintage that lies comfortably between the further away past, and current day Glen Garioch. As member of the Dutch Usquebaugh Society, we once selected a critically acclaimed Glen Garioch from this era, that I myself liked a little less due to a soapy element. Let us try one again.
Glen Garioch 23 years old, bottled at 51,7 % abv by Sansibar
First things first: Only 288 bottles for this Sansibar bottling of a 1991 Glen Garioch single cask that was bottled in 2014.
Upon Sipping: Ah, a brilliant nose that reminds me of walking in an a hothouse full of fruit and beautiful flowers. Very fragrant, really. Soft cinnamon and confidently woody. After some time for oxygen, we discover an outspoken minty note that suddenly turns into a perfumy character. Like I said, very fragrant and outspoken. The arrival on the tongue is silky soft, with wood and mint on the tongue, and a surprising mix of spice and vanilla on the finish. A bit more fragile than the confident nose would suggest. There is always this fine line between the powerhouse it is now, and turning a page towards the soapy character Glen Garioch can also have. The balance is kept well in this Sansibar bottling.
With water: more candy, flowers and soap blocks now, but all very pleasant, close to strawberry but also mixed with light chocolate notes. The wood is like the glue throughout the whole experience, keeping this Glen Garioch on the straight and narrow. The taste leans more towards a sticky caramel, with a nice oily mouthfeel. A tad soapy on the exit now, which is not my preferred style, but it stays well within limits. There is a strong fudge note underlying.
Word to the Wise: Quite a variation in this Glen Garioch 23 years old by Sansibar. With water it displays a beautiful array of “brown” characteristics, with water it gives more floral hints. Good stuff for nerds to play with.
Score: 87 points.