Glendronach gives us the Master’s Anthology
Master Blender Rachel Berrie is one of the big names in the whisky industry, so when she creates, we humble whisky lovers take note. The Master’s Anthology is quite a hefty name for a series of Glendronach bottlings that explores sherry maturation. According to an article I read in Whisky Magazine, the series ‘embodies the essence of The Glendronach and tells a story of our history, our heart and our dedication’. I smirked a little when I read “The Glendronach”, which just sounds a bit weird to me. But lest we forget, Glendronach of course premiumized their output in 2024. No age stated single malt whisky apparently still falls under the premium umbrella, and we have to say, when it comes to looks, the presentation of the boxes and bottles the whisky comes in is indeed rather fancy looking. Since we are entering the festive season, you will make quite the impression if you gift (one of) these bottles to a dear family member or friend.
At Long Pour Amour, we are first and foremost about whisky. We are going to taste all releases in this Master’s Anthology, and for our pleasure and yours, throw in a age stated Glendronach too! The 21 years old Parliament was never my favourite, as I preferred the more raw impact of the 15 and 18 years old. But really, it is nitpicking between driving a Bentley, a Ferrari and an Aston Martin.
Glendronach Ode to the Valley, bottled at 46,2 % abv
First things first: An ode to the highlands, where the Glendronach distillery is situated, this single malt aged in sherry casks and port casks. The lowest abv in the series.
Upon Sipping: It certainly has a luxurious nose, full on red fruits; blackcurrant, cherries in a pie, doughnut sugar. On the other end of the spectrum some antique furniture with lockers. When you open a little drawer or door you can smell the 1950s. Glendronach is one of those malts that can stand up well to Port wine influences. Mixing them with sherry seems over the top, but on the nose it works. The tannins arrive early in the process, with caramel and wood spices dominating the story. On the finish I feel it fall apart, with a very floral but also soapy exit. That was unexpected. No, sadly it does not deliver after the brilliant opening salvo of the aroma. On repeated sipping, the lavender remains, and I really do not prefer that in my whisky.
Word to the Wise: What a contrast between a promising nose and a deeply disappointing taste experience (mostly the finish). I am a little shocked at how we got off. Hopefully on the wrong foot.
Score: 78 points.
Glendronach Ode to the Embers, bottled at 48,4 % abv
First things first: Matured in both Oloroso and Pedro Ximinez casks, this is peated Glendronach, which was always a weird experience in the ranges of this distillery. Still, in bygone days, peated highland whisky was not so rare at all.
Upon Sipping: Just like the “Valley” expression, this “Embers” variant is a delight to nose. A much more meaty experience, giving us the sherry but also ashes and dark, smouldering wood. So yes, embers indeed! I could swear I pick up a whiff of sea breeze, but let’s not forget in Scotland you are never far from the sea anyway. So, why not? The PX part becomes a tad louder as we move along, maybe even outstaying its welcome a little. This Ode to the Embers turns mushy a little, I can see mushrooms with a little bit of earth still on them. This is a whisky to take on your forest walk. Surprisingly fruity and sweet on the palate, this Glendronach, with cinnamon and herbs. This is what a Highland single malt should try to capture, even though I would love to have the heathery notes speak even louder. Just like the previous sample, I think the finish is the weakest part of the story, with again this soapy lavender notes. It reminds me of the soapy Living Souls expression. The peat smoke is very modest, but it keeps those more floral notes well balanced. Keep in mind also, that this taster (yours truly) is very sensitive to soapy notes.
Word to the Wise: A step up from the disappointment of the Ode to the Valley, but we are still not hitting the homerun we had hoped for. Having said that, this Glendronach puts the embers on display indeed, and for that we can say: mission accomplished.
Score: 82 points.
Glendronach Ode to the Dark, bottled at 50,8 % abv
First things first: The highest abv in the Master’s Anthology, this Ode to the Dark is indeed dark in the glass, and matured fully on Pedro Ximinez sherry casks.
Upon Sipping: Classic PX influences, but I am mostly struck by the strong layer of ozone on top of this Glendronach. This is not so much a PX-sweet whisky, as it is dark and brooding, delivering on chocolate notes and cold coffee. The same furniture as in the “Valley” expression, but this was just polished or brushed with special furniture treatment. Or maybe more like a Saturday morning on which my dad used to polish his shoes. As a child, I used to watch his doings and smell this particular odour coming from the activities. Never thought I would encounter it so often in sherried single malt whisky. This Glendronach delivers the memories of childhood. But, while I type these words, the Ode to the Dark has transformed into a more fruity character too. Purple cherries inside a warm pie. Delicious. The whisky coats the mouth when you take a sip, but one must state the obvious. I fear these Glendronach samples are quite young, and the age is a problem. Of course, the series mean to display the cask influence, but the basis is delicate. Perhaps a tad too delicate. So, on the palate, lots of wood and spices, with hints of softer red fruits like strawberry and sour raspberries, but towards the finish it suffers the same weakness as the other two. With water you will get cigar leaves and wood spices, but on the palate it becomes a tad dry. To show it all comes from the same stock, I regret to find a little soapy off-note in this Glendronach as well. Maybe a problem with modern sherry casks. Again, I say it is a sensitivity in me, but taste before you buy.
Word to the Wise: A good build up in this session, because this is the most satisfying of the three. It was not an easy session, because none of these Ode bottlings are without flaws. Still, it is always a delight to taste Glendronach, one of the more singular Highland malts out there.
Score: 84 points.
GlenDronach Parliament, 21 years old, bottled at 48 % abv
First things first: Tasted in a separate session. This 21 years old GlenDronach (still with capital D) was bottled on 29 July 2021, making this a much older whisky, because Glendronach was not in production between the late nineties and 2022. That is also the reason these expressions are highly sought after. Maturation took place in Pedro Ximenez and Oloroso Sherry casks.
Upon Sipping: Where are the days that PX-casks did not invite themselves to every freaking party? Well, anyway, here we are. The nose opens on sour pickles, which is never a good sign, but then the more classical sherry notes drip through. Old, wet wood, strawberry mulch, light hints of spices. I have a sense that the oloroso content is still very strong in this one. Complex nosing, very impressive. So, why add the PX? Let’s take a sip. A good solid mouthfeel with a dry notes of figs and dades, lots of leather, chocolate of course but also hints of cooled down tea. Quite a fierce finish, with wood impact, and the same lavender but every so lightly as in the Ode bottlings. It is a fascinating mix between the more darker and brooding oloroso identity, and the slightly more upbeat and fruity PX, even though those fruits are infused with wood spices. This Glendronach 21 years old actually improves with a drop of water, taking away some of the dry notes and replacing them with a fruitiness that were the hallmark of these fabulous 1972 vintages. More strawberry, but fresh and elegant ones, and raspberry ice with whipped cream to the side. Yummy.
Word to the Wise: Rather satisfying after a reluctant start, but this is good whisky to drink next to the fireplace with a cigar in the one hand and the glass in your other. Those are actually the ones we like the best in the LPA household (if only I had a fireplace!).
Score: 88 points.