Glenrothes: distilled in the cathedral of whisky
Would you believe me if I said that since I started blogging I have spent maybe four or five lines on a Glenrothes single malt whisky? Well, it is true! As part of the very first releases of the Signatory 100 proof series, I tasted one (and I did not even like it). Ever since, I have been planning a proper session with this usually very high quality Speyside whisky. And I say Speyside, but Glenrothes belongs maybe to a class separate from that, with the other distilleries near Rothes, not in the least of course Glen Grant. But let us forget about regionality for a bit.
Forgetting about Glenrothes is perhaps also what the owners at the Edrington Group did. When your sister distilleries are Macallan and Highland Park, this might sound understandable. For us whisky enthusiasts it is nice to have some little secrets up our sleeves. Anyway, Glenrothes has been around since 1878 and back in the 1960s the distillery started to grow considerably, with stills being added in the next twenty years, to a total of ten in 1989. Current day production is 5.6 million litres per year. A lot of Glenrothes goes into blends, although I do not know if the ties with the Cutty Sark blended Scotch are still in place. As a single malt, Glenrothes was released with a vintage statement instead of an age statement. Modern whisky drinkers are probably quite used to that, but when Glenrothes started, it was rarely seen. Maybe they took the idea from Knockando, who had been doing it for ages too. Our first sample today is from such a release, before we move on to three independent bottled expressions.
Fun fact about Glenrothes before we begin: the water is used seems to be the softest water used in the whisky industry (my source: Malt Whisky Yearbook 2025). The distillery takes it water from a volcanic spring. Let’s see if we can find this explosive soul in the malt whiskies we taste!
The Glenrothes 1982 – 1998, bottled at 43 % abv
First things first: This bottle was “approved”, as The Glenrothes calls it themselves, on 6 December 1997, and then bottled in 1998. No information on casks used for this batch.
Upon Sipping: This has an incredible depth of aroma, where even some bottle ageing might have rubbed off on the liquid. Deep, fruity notes of tangerine and oranges (the signature style of Glenrothes!), vanilla from the wood maturation, soft almond filling inside a cookie and several spices making for a brothy layer underneath it all. Then a sip, well, the arrival is indeed incredibly soft on the palate, with sugary orange marmalade on the tongue. Wood spices are strong in this Glenrothes 1982, which makes me think first-fill casks were used. The creamy vanilla truly coats the entire mouth, with hints of beeswax and English tea with milk as sidenotes. Unbelievable this is only 43 % abv, because the liquid is strong and determined. With a drop of water, I am thinking of a more classic Speyside character, closer to orchard fruits or better yet: the orchard itself after a rainy night, dew still having between the trees. Marvellous.
Word to the Wise: What a surprise this middle-aged official Glenrothes is. It brings everything it has and then some extra, probably created while it was kept in glass for a long while. These are the bottles to hunt for.
Score: 90 points.
Glenrothes 34 years old, Mythical Beasts, bottled at 42 % abv by Spiritfilled
First things first: I am building this tasting up with the oldest vintage first, towards the most recent vintage. This bottling in the Mythical Beasts series by Spiritfilled has no vintage statement, but by calculation it should have been made around 1988/1989. Matured in oloroso sherry cask #7038 and yielding 160 bottles of pitch black liquid.
Upon Sipping: Glenrothes always performs well on heavy sherry. Does anyone remember these extreme bottlings from the 2000 vintage, bottled at just 6 or 7 years of age by Adelphi? These were incredible. This much, much older expression is equally attractive on the nose. Lots of red fruit still, where the wood could have been overpowering. It ticks all the boxes of a classic sherry beast: red fruit, raisins, deeply expressive demerara rum, cigar leaves dipped in cherry sauce. In short: a perfect cask that kept the whisky alive. On the tongue, it can’t keep up with the promise of the nose. The palate turns rather dry and the wood impact is high. Lots of chocolate notes of course, and lovers of the better African coffee beans are in for a treat here. Luckily, I am one of them. To be fair, this Glenrothes has a lot of mileage on the counter, and it shows. It might come off a little tired, but it aged with grace. There is still enough sweetness lingering. I will try with some water. The nose can’t really stand that, but the palate turns a little softer now, with more praline on the tongue. The finish gains some fruity traction, showing the oranges in the basket.
Word to the Wise: Play with this whisky as you want, either way you will get the sophistication of a splendidly mature single malt whisky. There is also enough Glenrothes recognisable in the mix. This is a gem, with some rough edges. Thanks for the sample, Bart!
Score: 90 points.
Glenrothes 2005 – 2017, bottled at 58,1 % abv by Gordon & MacPhail
First things first: First fill sherry butt #4789 was distilled on 13 April 2005 and bottled by G&M in their Cask Strength range on 9 May 2017.
Upon Sipping: Light in colour, so maybe not the most active cask, but we will find out. The aroma is close to the 1982 sample we started off with. Oranges and citrusy notes like in a perfume. Some hints of chocolate and wet wood too. We will return after adding some water. The undiluted sip brings us a fruity arrival on the tongue, with soft chocolate notes again, mixed with some bitterish marmalade jelly. A bit dry towards the finish, where mostly the wood speaks. So, this butt did not leave colour but enough wood rubbed off on the taste. Water does not bring out a lot of change. It remains a modest, brooding example of Glenrothes. The palate has turned a page towards the sweeter elements. The soft mouthfeel is a delight. This single malt needs some tinkering with water, but then it shines.
Word to the Wise: Too austere to really find something that stands out, but a decent dram.
Score: 83 points.
Glenrothes 2011 – 2023, Small Batch, bottled at 48,2 % abv by Signatory Vintage
First things first: Small Batch Edition #2 in a very accessible series by Signatory Vintage. We have tasted several, including Mortlach and Craigellachie. This version of Glenrothes matured on a mixture of first fill oloroso sherry and ex-bourbon casks.
Upon Sipping: An interesting choice by Signatory to diluted the sherry content with bourbon casks. I wonder why they choose that route. In any case, this Glenrothes opens rather modern, all on hazelnuts, chocolate spread and even a hint of sulphur. Only after repeated sniffs do I discover the joys of a more fruity character, but it is rather subdued, which is a pity. The taste is along the same lines, a little bit of neither this or that. Not really full on the sherry, but also not enough fruit from the bourbon casks. Like a tired boxer who has gone a few rounds too many. The finish has a bitter off-note that does not really suit me. With water, this expression does redeem itself, creating a nice and creamy texture in the mouth, but the finish remains disappointing.
Word to the Wise: Something is off here, but maybe it is just not my style. You can’t win them all.
Score: 78 points.