Korukabegura new make: Precision, Purity, Provenance
You Only Live Twice is my favourite James Bond novel, penned by spiritual father Ian Fleming. In one of the early chapters, Tiger Tanaka talks to 007 about Japanese whisky. He drinks Suntory. “Went up to the distillery some while ago and met one of the family. Told me an interesting thing about whisky. He said you can only make good whisky where you can take good photographs. Ever heard that one? Said it was something to do with the effect of clear light on the alcohol.”
The light must be clear and the air very pure where we are going today. Korukabegura Distillery is a production facility owned by Takara Shuzo Co. Limited. This last name may sound familiar for those who know their whisky history. Takara is the owner of the Scottish highland distillery Tomatin and has been so since 1986. It has been smooth sailing ever since, but even more so in the last decade and a half, when Tomatin justifiably gained a much higher profile than ever before. As one of my favourite highland whiskies, I am subscribed to their newsletter and this is how I got to know about Korukabegura. The web shop offered new make spirit and I did not doubt for a moment. By now, the Tomatin page also has a dedicated Korukabegura section. Read here.
Korukabegura is by no means a new distillery, as it was founded in 1952. Whisky test production started in 1982 with the use of pot stills that were Scottish made in 1979. Those stills were based on the same ones used in the obscure Shirakawa Distillery.
Little is known about this ghost distillery, but Tomatin surprised us not so long ago with a bottling of a 1958 vintage. Sadly unobtainable due to pricing, one can only dream about how that would taste. I tried to acquire a sample but the answer was a swift and decided “no”.
Korukabegura continues the legacy of Shirakawa. It is indeed a single malt and follows all the rules set for being called a Japanese single malt whisky. The distillery produces shochu, mostly. I am guessing that, after those experiments almost 45 years ago, it is now time to shift to higher gear and walk the whisky path properly. We do not know much else, but the tagline above this article was showcased during the Whisky Show in London, so that is something to go by. Today we taste the new make, to get an impression.
Korukabegura New Make 2025, bottled at 63 % abv
First things first: New make single malt Japanese whisky, 100 percent malted barley.
Upon Sipping: Nosing and tasting a new make spirit is not for everyone, but I love it. The raw, fruity smell of the purest liquid. This Korukabegura is tremendously vibrant, almost alive, with the sweet barley sugar putting a large stamp on the aroma. Lots of fruits rise from the glass, white grapes, freshly washed in spring water. In fact, the clear air of mountainous Japan might have slipped into this glass as well. It is crystal clear. If a spring that flows from a mountain to the sea would carry a smell, it would be this. Power of suggestion, I know, but the tagline words are not chosen at random – they seem appropriate. Some forest mints from pine tree emerge after some breathing.
The first sip of production from a new (to be) whisky is always exciting. The arrival on the tongue is incredibly soft, like banana mousse. Tastes like banana too. The malt essence is transported in style to this part of the tasting experience. The spirit is pretty easy to drink at 63 % abv, but we are going to drop in some water anyway. The aroma became even stronger, with more creamy notes that remain close to the fruit bowl. Like milky cornflakes with pieces of strawberry in it. The taste reveals a slight bitter note, like eating dark bread, pumpernickel perhaps. Chunks of apricot in there. This Korukabegura new make spirit offers a lot of variation and complexity already.
Word to the Wise: New make spirit is perhaps a tad underappreciated as a whisky drinking experience, but I promise you that you are missing out. Tasting this Korukabegura in its embryo state is a delight, reminiscent of the Rosebank new make spirit. This one ups the ante even more.
Score: 82 points.