Tasting the core range of Finnish rye whisky Kyrö
As a true and self-declared whisky nerd, I can do without the gimmicks you sometimes run into on whisky festivals. And sometimes you just cannot avoid it. Especially not when you bring along a female companion that is enticed by the inevitable chocolate stand. It was exactly this situation I found myself in, when I spotted Ruben Maduro in a bath robe, surrounded by the steam of a very good impersonation of a Finnish sauna. A better introduction to Kyrö Whisky is not imaginable. He poured me a glass and amicably started chatting about the distillery, the idea of which was conceived in (you might have guessed) a sauna! Five friends were steaming in the heat, and got an epiphany. Besides producing malt rye whisky, Kyrö also makes gin and other liquors.
If there is something they have enough off in Finland, besides beautiful people and excellent Formula One drivers, it is Rye. Logic was clearly at the foundation of the idea to establish Kyrö. I will gladly redirect you to their website, which includes some pleasant nudity, and we will turn our attention to four of their products, that were kindly gifted to me by the partly dressed Ruben.
Kyrö Malt Rye Whisky, bottled at 47,2 % abv
First things first: “As rye as it gets.” 100 % rye whisky matured in new American oak and ex-bourbon casks.
Upon Sipping: Smells like a good piece of dark brown rye bread, mission accomplished. When a name suggests something and it delivers on the promise, I am convinced. Dry furniture wood, sawdust, hints of mint and pine tree, of which I am sure they have plenty in Finland too. There is a faint meaty whisper in the distance as well, not as extreme as I usually find in the Thy Bøg (and I really do not like), but it is there too. Taking a sip, we are greeted by a very pleasant sweet arrival on the palate. Hints of vanilla first, but the longer you swirl it around, it becomes darker and more woody, turning into pure chocolate with an alcoholic afterburn. It really carries a good kick. For sure it is a bit rough around the edges, probably like an unshaven Fin in the sauna, but that must have been the goal with this creation. It delivers a good, robust dram. With the adding of a little water the whisky turns more into a reflection of a damp forest in the morning. The sweetness on the palate adds complexity to a whisky that could have easily been overpowered by the wood. In this case, it is not.
Word to the Wise: A very satisfying beginning to this session. The Malt Rye brings balance, power and frivolity to the table. This is a good example of a rye to put in a lineup with other rye expressions from other countries. It will give most of them a run for its money.
Score: 83 points.
Kyrö Malt Oloroso Whisky, bottled at 47,2 % abv
First things first: Same whisky as the previous sample, now matured in oloroso casks.
Upon Sipping: Interestingly enough, it shows a lot of similarities with the “regular” expression, so the oloroso certainly did not overpower here. Somebody dripped some syrup on this loaf of bread. The arrival is again very sweet, which I think is absolutely charming, but now the finish is a tad too bitter for my taste. It has a little hint of smoky barbecue wood, or coal, like as if you dropped your steak on the charcoal and picked it up quick enough, but there is still something dusty on your meat. Somehow the oloroso does not feel as well-connected to the distillate as the bourbon wood did in the previous sample. Water brings some improvement and changes the palate too, now feeling a bit more silky soft, which is enjoyable. The finish got more rough with water.
Word to the Wise: Kyrö and oloroso do not seem the right match, or they need to look for better casks. To me, this expression feels like a cloaked version of the regular bourbon version.
Score: 80 points.
Kyrö Wood Smoke Malt Rye Whisky, bottled at 47,2 % abv
First things first: “Rye whisky lifted, but not defined by crisp alder smoke.” Matured in ex-bourbon, French oak and Virgin American oak casks.
Upon Sipping: A somewhat messy cask make-up, let’s see if that works. The nose I like very much, because apparently the smoke has added a sweet note to this Kyrö. All in all, there is a more fruity character to be found in this whisky now. Perhaps that is the influence of the French oak, that might have held wine in it before. When it settles in the glass, it does return to the classic notes we found in the first sample. Hints of glue, pumpernickel bread and apricot jam. Yes, this is for sure a richer expression compared to the first two. On the palate, it suffers a bit of unbalance, which is probably because of the three different styles of wood. Swallowing is also not the highest pleasure, as if sinking your teeth into an IKEA cabinet (yes, I know that is a Swedish brand). With water, the nose stays lovely, but the palate turns even woodier. The virgin oak might have been too much for this creation.
Word to the Wise: The nose is probably the best of the three I have tasted thus far, but this Kyrö Wood Smoke fails to deliver all the way to the end. It is entertaining stuff though, just not my preferred style.
Score: 78 points.
Kyrö Peat Smoke Malt Rye Whisky, bottled at 47,2 % abv
First things first: Not Scottish peat, but Finnish freshwater peat. Matured in new American oak, bourbon barrels and refill Kyrö Malt casks.
Upon Sipping: Well, at least it is authentic. It makes a full circle on this tasting because I mostly am reminded of the first sample, the regular Rye Malt. But sure, there is a whiff of smoke to be found in between the wooded smells and concentrated green apple fruit aroma. The taste carries a new freshness to the experience, with a sweet vanilla note to top it off. The peat is most noticeable on the finish, where it creates this briny and chocolatey sensation. After adding a drop of water, the nose turns decidedly more peaty! The smoke rising from the glass paints a picture. Dipping into an icy cold lake on New Year’s Day, as is traditional in the Netherlands and perhaps in Finland just a regular Wednesday. But after that, warming up around a campfire. That is how this whisky smells, and it invokes this imagery. The sweet notes in the taste remain a defining feature of the Kyrö spirit.
Word to the Wise: Interesting to read the divisiveness around this peated expression on Whiskybase. A love it or hate it whisky? In the lineup with fellow Kyrö expressions, I like this one best after the regular instalment. Having tasted the four samples that were kindly given to me, I can now say the original is actually the best, and can stand among the best of them. The rest are interesting variations that I can do without. But alongside more Scandinavian distillers, the Nordic whisky producers have a style all their own, and I love that. Keen to see what more Kyrö will surprise us with!
Score: 82 points.