Lagavulin Distillery Exclusive: a textbook example
A visit to Islay is not complete without a visit to the true king of the island: Lagavulin Distillery. There are few distilleries that capture the magic of peated whisky so perfectly as this one. It is with fond memories that I look back at my last visit to Islay, when Lagavulin celebrated its 200th birthday. It was a tremendous event, with lots of tastings and party. Since 2016, the (whisky) world has changed quite a bit. Where Lagavulin could have stoically watched it all, and went on churning out great Islay single malts, it also fell in the trap of tinkering with something that needs no tinkering. We have seen the odd finish or weird maturation pass us by. Where I truly adored the mezcal finished Islay Jazz release, I am less enthusiastic about some recent experiments.
While visiting the distillery a few weeks ago, the kind member of staff was more than willing to let us taste a few drams. We put some recent festival releases to our lips, only to get disappointed. Last years’ Jazz release was a 14 year old Lagavulin finished in South African Cabernet Sauvignon wine casks. It just had a weird off note to it. Strangely enough, a 15 year old from the year before that was finished in oloroso sherry butts was also less than satisfactory. The one Lagavulin that did make me happy was actually the Feis Ile 2024, a 10 year old that was supposed to display the old Malt Mill character. And boy, it does blow you off your socks! Almost like an extra peaty Lagavulin, an Islay malt that is already not known for its subtlety. But the price tag was really off-putting. This greed that you get smacked in the face after travelling all the way to Islay is truly repulsive. Let it be clear: this is as much an annoyance to the local staff as it is to true whisky enthusiasts, who are duped by year on year of whisky flipping poisoning the well. And the parent company being sensitive to that.
The best Lagavulin we tasted and that was actually worth taking a bottle home from, because it was relatively mildly priced, was the one we taste today. The Distillery Exclusive Lagavulin has been performing strongly ever since the first came out a decade and a half ago. The member of staff proudly claimed this expression is indeed the staff’s pick. Quite similar then to the Talisker Distillery Exclusive we tasted in December. The cask makeup is also very similar.
Lagavulin Distillery Exclusive, Batch 01, bottled at 56,5 % abv
First things first: Named Batch 01, bottled in 2023 and still readily available at the distillery. Some 7.506 bottles were filled from a cask signature entailing a vatting of ex-bourbon & heavily charred American oak casks. (The difference with the Talisker being that the Skye exclusive received an additional finish in European oak.)
Upon Sipping: Lagavulin without an age statement but also without a weird cask selection. You can leave it to the staff to pick a classic. Lots of herbs, sea weed and sea water rising from the glass. Wet robe, brine, oyster water and hints of charcoal and vanilla. After some breathing a bright yellow gorge makes an appearance. Taking a sip, the palate overflows with a salty tang, with beautiful peat spreading everywhere, burning the nostrils from the inside out when you swallow. This is not entirely unlike the standard 16 years old, but certainly packing more punch at this abv. It is really a mouthful and oh so delicious. I reluctantly drop a splash of water in the glass. It does little to diminish the incredible maritime character that is caught in the bottle here. Perhaps more smoke is released now, but it remains largely the same. The salt on the palate has now changed into a sweeter, vanilla note. The finish is a tad more bitter, but still impressive.
Word to the Wise: Textbook Lagavulin and deserving of a nice, rounded score. With the whisky market taking a nosedive into the economic abyss, one might hope that the days of silly finishes are over. Just gives us A-quality single malt like this, and we will weather the storm together.
Score: 90 points.
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