Laphroaig Càirdeas with white port and Maderia
Laphroaig is an Islay single malt whisky but make no mistake, however quaint that might sound, this distillery is also about big business. As one of the biggest and most popular peated whiskies in the world, it has become difficult to compare Laphroaig to more artisanal producers like Kilchoman and Bruichladdich. To me, the Laphroaig can be very underwhelming when dissecting it for this blog. On the other hand, recently I went to a jazz performance by Donny McCaslin in a dark and brooding club in the south of the Netherlands, and the only decent whisky on stock was a Laphroaig 10 years old. In such a situation, it is the best whisky you can wish for. There is a time and place for everything, reminding me of the fact that whisky should of course be consumed, not analysed to death. But hey, that is what I do as a whiskyblogger, so bear with me. Today, we taste a more special Laphroaig.
Laphroaig Càirdeas, edition 2023, bottled at 52,3 % abv
First things first: For Feis Ile 2023, this Càirdeas was created using Laphroaig that finished in White Port (first fill) and Madeira (second fill) casks. Bottled halfway March 2023, but no age statement.
Upon Sipping: I have tasted most Càirdeas expression since they started doing more exotic cask varieties on this yearly release. What is interesting, is that the Laphroaig spirit always seems rather stoic about what you throw at it. At the core, there is peat and fresh maritime notes, and only after that we get something of the variation chosen. This 2023 edition is quite the same. Good, tarry, Islay peat with a whiff of fruit mulch. The madeira talks louder than the port, but both are nuanced. On the palate, the liquid is a lot more sticky with red lemonade, a fizzy sparkle and then a bitter exit from fruit, not wood. I have no doubt this is young Laphroaig that carries enough punch to beat the exotic casks into submission. Done like this, all the elements make for a strong combination. It might be a tad too sweet for my taste, but without any weird off-notes, I can only say that his experiment works like a charm. Only after adding some water, I notice a surprising collapse of the house of cards. That is weird. So, steer clear of that!
Word to the Wise: A very interesting variation on the well-known Laphroaig character, but you do need a sweet tooth to really enjoy this expression.
Score: 85 points.