Mortlach: the perfect match for a sherry cask
Pour some brand new Mortlach spirit in a sherry cask and leave it alone for a decade or so, and you will create something that has delighted fans over many decades already. When I started thinking about this Long Pour Session and choose Mortlach for it, I wondered about how the reputation of this Speyside distillery from Dufftown came to be so renowned. Most times it is easy, you take a look at legendary bottlings from the past, and take it from there. The thing is: Mortlach has precious few official ones. My first encounter with the spirit came with expressions bottled by well-known names like Gordon & MacPhail, Adelphi, Signatory and Cadenhead’s. Indeed, the Elgin based G&M still releases a semi-official expression. They are worth looking into actually.
Much beloved among lovers of sherried whisky is – and we cannot pass this one by – the 16 years old Flora & Fauna bottling. For a long time, this was the one and only standard expression released by Diageo, who owns distillery and brand. We have seen some editions in the Rare Malts Selection and the occasional special release. The 1971 vintage that was bottled at 32 years old is to this day one of my personal favourites. A rebranding into nice looking bottles that carried less and less age statement and more and more beautiful names did nothing to elevate the reputation of Mortlach. If anything, it was cashing in on a reputation that was built by others. The independent bottlers, most of all. Today we are going to taste two bottles that were drawn from sherry casks. Because of its meaty, fierce spirit, Mortlach is the ideal sparring partner for this heavy influence.
Mortlach 14 years old, bottled at 57 % abv by Sestante
First things first: Sestante is one of the most legendary Italian bottlers from the previous century and bottles are highly sought after. Not only the liquid in the bottle is excellent, owner Ernesto Mainardi also had a flair for excentric labels. Whisky came most times from Gordon & MacPhail and Cadenhead stock; not an uncommon place for Italian bottlers to look to. About this bottle there is not much conclusive information. Some sources speak of late 1960s distillate but this seems improbable to me, since Sestante only started bottling under his own name in 1985. A whisky distilled in the early 1970s seems more probable then. The same vintage as the delicious 32 years old Special Release then? We can only hope!
Upon Sipping: Bottled at 100 proof, which was quite unusual in those days too. We proceed with caution, but at first whiff it comes off rather fruity, where I expected a more meaty character. Some ripe cherries, deep red in colour, freshly washed and standing in a bowl on the table.
You find yourself walking past it all day and grabbing one each time. But after a while the body seems to grow in the glass and more complex flavours rise. We veneer more herbs, leather and shoe polish now. I will try to uncover some more details after adding some water, but first a sip undiluted.
On the palate you taste pure brilliance that is dominant but dark, bitter wood smoke, and some hints of charcoal. Still, the whole experience feels soft and gentle to swirl around on the tongue. Beautifully drying upon swallowing. Time to add some water to see what we find, even though we fully understand why Signore Mainardi bottled this at high strength. The character returns to a decidedly more fruity style, with plums, subtle apricot but also some soot. We do not want to inhale too deeply here, careful with our lungs! The Mortlach seems to settle more in the glass with this few drops of water, so I can recommend it. On the palate, some power is lost, and the whisky turns into a more friendly Speyside single malt. More oranges, dark chocolate and less smoky. It is difficult to say which version I like most, diluted or not, but the raw style of the 57 % seems to take the edge. In that condition, it is just quintessentially Mortlach.
Word to the Wise: A classic Mortlach that ticks all the boxes, but surprisingly is less meaty than other expressions we know. This bottle holds a prime example of what sherry maturation used to be about, beyond the adding of a nice golden brown colour. Yeah, exemplary, in all ways: for Mortlach, for sherried whisky, for legends.
Score: 91 points
Mortlach 13 years old, vintage 1990, bottled at 58,6 % abv by SMWS
First things first: A bottling by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society with the title “Something for everyone”. Distilled in June 1990 and bottled in July 2003, this Mortlach matured in sherry and produced 644 bottles.
Upon Sipping: The initial impression is that of an old vintage Kopke Port wine. Lots of creamy delight but in the distance an old foe raises its head: sulphur. Not the type that makes you want to throw away your glass, but the type that adds complexity and edge. So, not a foe but a friend? Slight hints of cheddar make for the desire to fill a plate with goodies, crawl under a blanket on the sofa and put on the Lord of the Rings. Taking a sip, this Mortlach takes another turn.
The burnt feeling all over is undeniable, and the sticky wood flavours are closely related to that lingering sulphur we picked up on the nose. Deeply tucked away on the finish are some red fruit varieties.
After adding a little water, some smoke is released, which makes me almost crave for tasting a heavily peated Morlach. Does that exist? The nose turns toward the BBQ geeks battling their roast with patience and skill. The meaty Mortlach has arrived. On the finish, with some alcohol hotness out of the way, there is room for milky chocolate notes. I like this more gently side of this dram.
Word to the Wise: Mortlach is known for taking no prisoners, and this bottling is a good example of that style. One to battle, and it will never be boring. With a little water, it does show a softer side. The name was aptly chosen for this bottling by SMWS. Sherry and Mortlach are a dream couple.
Score: 89 points
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