A return to form with The Macallan 110 proof
Are we at the brink of a return to normalcy in the whisky landscape? More and more producers put the age statement back on their boxes and bottles, and I see prices return to a more normal level here and there too (but not everywhere, yet). Regular readers of my blog might have noticed that I am quite critical when it comes to products released by The Macallan. Not so much even about the quality of their single malt, which is decent enough. It just falls flat on its face when you compare pricing between, for instance, products from the other big names in the market place, like Glenmorangie, The Glenlivet and Glenfiddich. But The Macallan has the name, the reputation of luxury, so it remains a strong brand. When The Whisky Shop in the UK announced an exclusive release of a Macallan 110 proof, my interest was piqued. The promise was that of a decent length of maturation, good abv and the use of predominantly European oak casks in the vatting. These are the conditions I am willing to chance it on! Let’s see if this is a return to form for a beloved brand that has been banking on the past for too long now. Special word of thanks to my sister, who grabbed a bottle of this while visiting the town of York a few weeks ago.
The Macallan 12 years old, 110 proof, bottled for The Whisky Shop at 55 % abv
First things first: So, this Macallan matured for 12 years in ‘predominantly European oak, with just a hint of influence from American oak’. These are all sherry-seasoned casks. Also, notice the 110 proof is the US system, not the UK one. I asked around, but only one person uttered the theory this might have been a US focused bottling that has now also come to Europe.
Upon Sipping: The first sniff gives me a eureka feeling! Classic Macallan, with that incredibly complex mix of sultana, wood, figs, chocolate and a mix of strawberry and cherry. It feels like a very deep and rooted sensation, not artificial and top layer, but really in the grain of things. For now, very convincing. Upon repeated nosing, some more rough notes come through, cinnamon, Mediterranean and Asian spices, but also the slightest hint of gunpowder. Done like this, it can add more layers to an already varied aroma. We have not even tasted yet, let us get to that.
The arrival is full of raisins and vibrant, chocolatey red fruit. Like strawberry under a chocolate fountain. The cherries are there too, giving a slightly sour but delightful edge. Oranges. Dare I mention the forbidden word? Do I? Yes, this could easily accompany a Christmas cake! Initially, I thought the palate was a bit to dry, but now my bottle is open for a few hours, it definitely became juicy and sticky.
The finish might have been fruitier, there it lacks some traditional paxarette, but the chocolate bitterness is very classical. In my early days of whisky drinking, my then in-laws had this Cask Strength bottle of Macallan open for quiet Sunday afternoons. This new version is certainly a close relative, and that is the best news we have heard from The Macallan in quite a while. This Macallan 110 proof is more polished, and does not need the slightest drop of water. (But if you do, in short: more red fruit on the nose, drier on the tongue, very edgy on the finish.)
Word to the Wise: Yes, this is a return to form for The Macallan, a triumphant expression for the lucky customers of The Whisky Shop. At 125 pounds, still a hefty price, but considering how rare European oak sherry wood has become, plus the name The Macallan 110 proof, it is also not over the top. I am reminded of a few classic Macallans actually, older cask strength versions and also the occasional Easter Elchies bottlings they had exclusively at the distillery. I am going to apply my trusted Ardbeg rule for Macallan from now on: when it carries an age statement and decent abv, this might well be a good buy. This new Macallan 110 proof … proves it.
Score: 90 points.