Port Ellen 1983 by Douglas of Drumlanrig
Port Ellen Distillery has only recently started producing single malt whisky again after a forty year hiatus, but the Islay legend does have a longer history. In fact, the distillery first entered the scene exactly 200 years ago this year. I came across publications that stated Diageo will release a bottle to celebrate this. This is a beautiful looking 42 years old from the 1983 vintage. Indeed, the last year the distillery was active. Of course, these types of bottles are not meant for you or me, but are aimed at the “Saltburn” audience that has been poisoning the well so much over the recent years. People that like whisky, but prefer return on investment. Or a nice watch, whatever, am I not the target audience and I drive a Ford Fiesta so I will probably never understand.
When I saw a post about this new Port Ellen on Instagram, I did something that went against my nature, but I asked for a sample to review here. The guy’s name sounded Dutch and indeed he was a friendly person who sadly had to disappoint me, whisky specialist had already been chosen by the marketing team. I had no expectations anyway, and the only reason for asking was that I myself got (well, paid for) a sample of Port Ellen 1983. Would have been fun to compare, which is what Long Pour Amour is all about: let out your inner whisky nerd! So, without further ado… happy birthday to Port Ellen! Be sure to check out my previous blog about the history of the distillery.
Port Ellen 1983, 23 years old, bottled at 51,8 % abv by Douglas of Drumlanrig
First things first: Distilled in March 1983 and bottled in 2006 for the Danish market. From one single cask, as the label says, and no other information besides that this is as pure as can be.
Upon Sipping: Douglas of Drumlanrig was a somewhat under the radar bottler, but they had a presence in The Netherlands so I would always sample their products at festivals and such. The name actually belongs to Hunter Laing, more famous for their own lines and of course opening Ardnahoe Distillery. We could say they know their Islay whisky! No new bottlings since 2016, they did however bottle around 20 Port Ellen expressions. This one is a classic, opening on a medical note that quickly turns rather maritime, with a lot of smoke hanging above the Port Ellen bay. Lots of smoky barley and decidedly pronounced lemons. In short: lovely!
Taking a sip, the attack is rather soft, all on vanilla, lemons and sharp peat. Still, to use a line from Lagavulin, the 23 years of maturation has taken out the fire, but left in the heat. This Port Ellen is oily and creamy on the tongue, and provides beautiful bitter hints from delicate wood. With water, more smoky vanilla on the nose, but the taste reveals more liquorice and peated honeycomb. I love how the barley is always present throughout the tasting experience. The finish is a tad short, but the peat smoke lingers gently and fills your brain with a hit of Islay terroir.
Word to the Wise: A gentle Port Ellen that ticks all the boxes of what an Islay whisky should be, medicinal, smoky, maritime and full of lemons. It is very straightforward and lacks some complexity but this could well be you Port Ellen daily dram (while you rewatch Saltburn).
Score: 89 points.