Secret Highlands: Clynelish hide and seek … or not?
Even though in more recent times we have seen names of undisclosed distilleries being subtly or not so subtly hinted, there is still a great deal of “secret Highland” around. Not so long ago, this would most often be a Clynelish, but this is not always the case. There has been released some 1980s stock “secret Highland” that, according to reliable sources, was most times Glenmorangie. Because I like to know what is in my glass, I tend to avoid those bottlings that I cannot pin down for sure. Today, I am going to make an exception. Two secret Highlands on the table, both rumoured to be from Clynelish, but not a 100 percent sure. The reason for the exception is that both expressions come from a source I trust to bottle excellent whisky. Let’s see if we can find a decisive conclusion on what the original distillery behind these secrets may be.
Distilled at a secret Highland distillery, vintage 2012, bottled at 53,3 % by Michiel Wigman
First things first: Bottled in the Gems of Scotland series donning a beautiful classic label by Hans Dilesse, well-know for creating beautiful art for whisky bottles. There are 263 bottles available from this whisky that was distilled in August 2012 and bottled in February 2024 (one year ago).
Upon Sipping: Very light and pure in colour, like rays of the rising sun on a cold early Spring morning in the Sutherland hills. See, I am forcing myself to believe this is Clynelish! When I poured the sample that was generously gifted to me by Michiel, there was a sharp release of citrus. The liquid was still cold, coming from the delivery van (it is still holiday here, you see, and I could not wait to taste this malt). Now it has warmed up a little, and it has a distinct signature of farmland. Some hay, muddy pools of water, grasses and barley. This is spirit driven whisky, and we love that.
Taking a sip, we are greeted by honeyed wood sticks, dipped in vanilla. There is also a strong hint of maritime saltiness. The imprint of the oak is felt on the finish, with sweetened spices. This is an impressive dram, but the fun really starts when you add just the smallest drop of water. Then, there is an undeniable beeswax note that mixes well with the strong, almost meaty vanilla. Given time, you will find lychees, grapefruit … and this pulls through to the palate. A bitter hint just adds to the complexity of this secret Highland distillate. With water, the finish gives off even more of a kick, that keeps the tongue tingling. Black tea with honey remains, lingering warm and soothing. This is an extremely quaffable dram for such complexity.
Word to the Wise: Saying this comes from Clynelish seems like a safe bet, but I can imagine the hesitation by not hinting at it more clearly. Fact is, (disclosed) Clynelish from 2012 is very rare. A quick look at the Whiskybase shows only SMWS bottlings from this vintage. If you look for a classic waxy profile in your whisky, this one has it, but you need to unearth it with a spade. To me, it was a pleasure to be at one point surprised by it. Complex and rewarding, pure, distillate driven whisky, highly recommended.
Score: 89 points.
Secret Highland 16 years old, bottled at 59,3 % abv by Whiskybase
First things first: This Secret Highland was distilled in May 2008 and bottled in June 2024 to celebrate the 250.000 entries that were made in the Whiskybase. This was a barrel with the number 16, which seems arbitrary to mention since we know nothing further about this whisky. Good luck searching for undisclosed Secret Highland whisky with barrel number 15 or 17.
Upon Sipping: Well, I dismiss it offhand, but there is actually a suspicion that this Secret Highland is a sister cask of this whisky for Archives. Indeed, barrel 14. There we go! And people in the know have seen a name mentioned on papers for this bottling. All I can say is, it was not Clynelish. But let us taste for ourselves. Thijs was quick to call this Whiskybase expression a Clynelish on his blog, so that made me even more curious to this mystery.
Alright, here goes: a floral fruitiness enters the nose, modestly, because I kept the glass at a distance with this abv. But rather fresh and sunny. Some new wood, but mostly vanilla coming from a very giving bourbon barrel. Not unlike the Archives Glenburgie 2011 that I tasted a few weeks ago. Someone at Whiskybase/Archives loves vanilla! The taste starts of pleasantly dry, allowing all the space the wood needs to make an impact. Very vibrant and fruity, with lots more peaches and soft fruits, maybe even hinting at tangerine. If we were comparing two whiskies from the same distillery, which is truly doubtful, I would say this one plays the fruity notes much more, whereas the “2012” by Wigman is riddled with a farmy, maritime, almost Brora-esque character.
We put in some water to bring down the almost 60 % abv hitting on the palate. More expressive now on the nose, with just more floral notes and fruity influences. This is a bright dram, for sure. Taking a sip once more, this Secret Speyside (oops) has become very creamy and covering the mouth with a nice sugarcoat. The finish is very clear and lingers on tropical notes.
Word to the Wise: Well, no matter what the outcome, which we may never know, this bottling is just a homerun whatever still it dripped from. In all honesty, I have a hard time believing this is really an undisclosed Clynelish. It has the character of a Speyside whisky. And yes, all Speyside whisky is Highland, but not all Highland whisky is Speyside. And this is where it starts getting tricky, because I firmly believe many people will buy this with the idea they are getting a Clynelish. Well, lucky for them, they will not be disappointed after pouring a glass. But this malt is closer to that Glenburgie, or maybe Dailuaine in style, than typically Clynelish.
Score: 89 points
Geef een reactie