Tamdhu 18 years old: a new sherried whisky monarch
When Ian Macleod’s brand ambassador Gordon Dundas visited the Netherlands a few years ago, he hosted a tasting in the cellar of the well-known retailer The Old Pipe in St. Oedenrode. He presented a range of Tamdhu whisky, with in their midst the newest release: the Tamdhu 18 years old. It was only years after the 15 years old was introduced, perhaps precisely 3 years, so this would be a continuation of that beloved expression. Tamdhu was already turning heads, but I think things really took off when that 15 years old hit the market. The bar was significantly raised for the “18”. From that evening, I remember being underwhelmed by it. It was good, but the Tamdhu 15 still has the edge. So, when I got a miniature bottle with my order of Rosebank New Make Spirit a few weeks ago, I was eager to take a second look at it.
Tamdhu 18 years old, bottled at 46 % abv
First things first: The whisky in this miniature bottle aged for 18 years in oloroso seasoned casks.
Upon Sipping: Well, maybe that evening the Tamdhu 18 suffered from comparison, because sniffing it now on its own it is just stunningly beautiful. It appears modest, confident, mature and complex. Where do you get all this in one glass? Soft notes from raisins and strawberry cake for a kid’s birthday. There is definitely some chocolate involved in this cake too. Finally, there is some nice nuttiness that firmly plants this Speyside whisky in the contemporary character of sherried whisky. Some ozone breaks loose after some breathing, creating dustiness. This aromatic whisky is a joy to nose. Very balanced, which is no mean feat for a sherried whisky. This Tamdhu keeps it clean.
Taking a sip, the palate is fully covered with mostly the nutty characteristics, with a bitterish pure chocolate note. It is no coincidence that I planned to publish this tasting note on the road to Christmas, but the Tamdhu 18 is surpassing my expectations. This is the one to drink after a luscious dessert on the 25th of December. I added a little water in the hope to wash away the most bitter notes, and that worked. It turns a little bit more dry, with hints of red fruit, but the finish loses nothing of its juice. The bitter note turned into a more woody signature, with hints of tobacco.
Word to the Wise: This Tamdhu comes very close to perfection. It offers everything you want from a sherried whisky with a considerable amount of maturation years under its belt. Delivering on promise is worth a lot these days. It lacks perhaps the X-factor, like maybe an extra whiff of red fruit or something else that might surprise, to go to the 90-point level, but that is nitpicking. Tamdhu deservedly joins the ranks of sherry whisky royalty, maybe even being its new monarch.
Score: 89 points.
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