Tamnavulin: the ultimate bang-for-your-buck malt?
With a production capacity of well over 4 million litres per annum, the Tamnavulin Distillery had enough whisky available to start growing drastically. And so it did. It has become THE fastest growing single malt in the world, creeping up to the top 10 of them. Who would have thought that, when the only bottle available (if even that) for a long time was the simplest of simple 12 years old? This clear bottle is something to look for on auction. Probably will not set you back more than 50 euro or pounds or dollars, and you will find an excellent example of clean, unbothered, super grassy single malt whisky from Speyside.
The big change came when the Philippine company Emperador took over Whyte & Mackay, owner of the distillery (amongst others, like The Dalmore). The Tamnavulin Double Cask was introduced shortly thereafter and the rest seems history. On the shelves we see extremely affordable entry level malts, of which we will taste two today.
Tamnavulin Double Cask, bottled at 40 % abv
First things first: Batch 0308 bottled in January 2022. Maturation of this Tamnavulin in American oak barrels with a finish in sherry casks.
Upon Sipping: A nutty character rises from the glass, and it seems to stand on the classic grassy DNA of Tamnavulin. Straightforward, relatively fierce for a 40 % abv, but characterful indeed. It has a hint of earthy tones which is actually kind of bold for an entry level malt. The sherry is talkative and overpowers the malty side of the whisky a little, with toffee and chocolate biscuits coming out on the other side. Taking a sip, we notice that this whisky will not offend even the most untrained palate. Smooth, with delightful chocolate chunks from the Easter bunny you forgot in the back of your kitchen cabinet. Bitter notes of ginger, some (sour) apples before returning back to the nutty side of the spectrum. The finish carries a kick, and for once I am not bothered by the low abv.
Word to the Wise: A very easy but rewarding daily dram. If a little more fruitiness could be added, and perhaps even some abv on top of it, this might rise to the mid-80s in score. As it is, I found it quite satisfying, positively surprised.
Score: 81 points.
Tamnavulin Sherry Cask Edition, bottled at 40 % abv
First things first: Batch 30502 bottled in June 2022. American Oak with a sherry finish. Is this the same treatment we saw with Jura, where just the name changed but cask makeup stayed the same for the Journey/Bourbon cask expressions? Let’s taste and find out.
Upon Sipping: In Germany available for 25 euro. That is very cheap, even for a NAS single malt. Indeed more or less the same nose as the Double Cask, perhaps a whisper less loud. When nosing a little deeper, I seem to pick up more citrus from underneath the sherried layer. That sherry (again) delivers nuttiness in spades. On the tongue, we finally see a divide between the Double Oak and this Sherry Cask Edition. It has more sourness and the hint of green grapes and Granny Smith apples is much more amplified compared to the Double Oak. On the finish, we actually pick up a much stronger walnut influence. It seems as if the Tamnavulins we taste today are in general coming from the same starting point, but the blender dialled up and down certain aspects here and there, making for a deviation. Very interesting to spot the differences between basically the same products.
Word to the Wise: The balance makes the difference and that I found better in the Double Oak. It is splitting hairs here of course. At the end of the day the biggest surprise is that Tamnavulin releases these quite high standard bottlings for very competitive prices. I am reminded of the excellent Tomatin Legacy in a way, as being in the same price category and also delivering in a very good way. Compliments all over!
Score: 80 points.