Experience the sea with Torabhaig Sound of Sleat
We do some island and peninsula hopping this week on LPA, and today we set foot on the Isle of Skye. A question that might infuriate people is: does an island stopping being an island when a bridge connects it to the mainland? I think not, but in any case, on 16 October of this year the Skye Bridge celebrates its 30th birthday since it was opened in 1995. I have once crossed it while on holiday. I got to Skye via way of Mallaig and in the traditional way: by ferry. After visiting the Talisker Distillery as one must when going to Skye as whisky enthusiast, we returned via the bridge to have a sleepover near the Eilean Donan Castle. After that, we moved all the way to the northernmost points of mainland Scotland. What an amazing trip that was!
We mentioned Talisker, but the honour of being the only whisky distillery on Skye has been lost with the arrival of the Torabhaig Distillery some 10 years ago. We tasted two expressions before, so go check out this blog, including a beautiful picture featuring Amour – the cat after which Long Pour Amour was partly named. Anyway, today we taste the most recent release, chapter 4 in the Legacy Series that paves the way to the Torabhaig 10 Years Old. That expression should come out in the year 2027. What is special about chapter 4, which is named Sound of Sleat, is indeed the dedication to this narrow sea channel between Skye and the more rugged, wild parts of Scotland like the eerie Knoydart. The colour on the packaging is truly amazing, and was designed by local artist Ellis O’Connor and obviously inspired by the sea. Will we taste some terroir here?
Torabhaig Sound of Sleat, bottled at 46 % abv
First things first: The Legacy Series – Chapter 4, and we get loads of information about this one. Ingredients: “Crafted from a blend of Concerto and Laureate malted barley, peated to 78PPM+, and fermented with 100% Pinnacle MG yeast over a 72-hour period”. In the glass, 14,5 PPM remains. Maturation took place in Quercus Alba American Oak, “including first-fill heavily toasted barrels shipped directly from the cooperage, first-fill Bourbon barrels typically 4-6 years old from Kentucky and refilled Bourbon barrels that may have had 10 years+ use from our own warehouses”, we read. Alright! Bottled without chill-filtration or colouring.
Upon Sipping: Oh yes, the Sound of Sleat sea water has made its way into my glass! Sooty notes intertwine with salt sea air, dry rope and fish sizzling on an open fire. In the faraway distance, I pick up some sour milky notes, which can come with peated products. I used to find this in young Ledaig shortly after Tobermory started producing peated spirit again. Really a blast from the past. A very briny single malt, more towards other islands in style than towards the neighbouring Talisker, that is for sure. On the tongue, more one-dimensional with run of the mill lemon notes, but the ashy part of the finish reminds me of old Islay malts from the dreary 1980s and 1990s, and I have a nostalgic, sentimental feeling about it. Interestingly, maybe because of the cask makeup, this Torabhaig shows a few flaws too, an inconsistent vibe, and dark wooded notes, but I enjoy it.
It was about time Torabhaig started colouring outside the lines a little, and this expression does that. With water, we get more medicinal notes, iodine, but also more maritime influences, kelp and salt, infused with some fudge for good measure.
Word to the Wise: Yes, I am going to continue on my last remark. This Torabhaig deviates from the sometimes sheer brilliance of earlier bottlings. These are the difficult middle years, where the power of young, raw (peated) spirit subsides a little in favour of contemplation. Will we be allowed another chapter before we get that 10 years old in 2027? Oh, I pray we do! This is an interesting insight in the work in progress of a fascinating spirit. (I understand there might be a batch strength version of this Sound of Sleat in the fall of this year.)
Score: 86 points.