Nostalgic Macallan bottled in batch by Signatory
The releasing of single malt whisky without disclosing the provenance of the stills, yeah, it has become standard practice by now. It annoys me to no end, but when bottlers start giving hints about what you are actually buying, my heart is softened. Like today’s specimen. Signatory has been putting out bottles like these for a little while now. We have also seen the addition of (GL) to some releases. Experience tells us that these bottlings far eclipse the official releases by these “secret” distilleries. We will see if that is the case with the (M) editions we taste today. I can promise you this: it went extremely well with my occasional cigar!
Speyside (M) 2009, 15 years old, bottled at 48,2 % abv by Signatory Vintage
First things first: This is batch edition # 19 and it features a Speyside whisky starting with an M but not being Mortlach or Mamdhu. Yes, yes, also not Mannochmore or Miltonduff. Anyway, matured in first fill and second fill oloroso sherry butts. Delightfully old-school.
Upon Sipping: There is something so immediately recognisable about Macallan from good old sherry casks, and this expression brings us back to the good old days. Rum soaked raisins, oriental spices, peaches and apricot, some blood oranges and delicate woodsmoke infused chocolate. This malt was obviously also still made at the old distillery, before the flying saucer crashed into the rolling green grasslands near Easter Elchies. What I appreciate most of all about this whisky, is that there is no hint of sulphur. This is definitely the Macallan we all fell in love with.
On the palate, you are treated on a sugary, Demerara arrival and here is where the active wood rubbed off on the spirit. Dark chocolate and very pure espresso, like the Italians drink it. It remains very centred, it is all spirit and cask, interlocked in an everlasting embrace, and we are just here for the pretty momentum that creates. Signatory is really showing off muscles with their excellent sherry casks, and puts many an official Macallan to shame with this quality. And that at more or less one third or one fourth of the price. Signatory has pretty labels too, you know? We added some water and even though this whisky swims like a fish, it does not need it. Perhaps we uncover even some rubber aftertaste on the finish, so just don’t bother. It is excellent as it is.
Word to the Wise: I have tasted quite a few Unnamed Speyside and other variants of secretive Macallan, but none were as dashing as this one. The first fill oloroso brings power and exuberance and the second fill oloroso balance and bulk. Batch whisky for the win anyway! If want to get a taste of the real Macallan, this is your go-to bottle.
Score: 88 points.
Speyside (M) 2011, 13 years old, bottled at 57,1 % abv by Signatory Vintage
First things first: Edition #25 in the 100 proof series by Signatory, this M matured in first fill and refill oloroso butts. So, all in all almost the same as the above bottle, but at 13 years of age and bottled at a higher strength.
Upon Sipping: Ha, but this one does carry a more dirty character, with a slight hint of gunpowder and sulphur on the nose. Difficult to get through that, but somehow it does feel familiar and almost nostalgic. Some darker fruits dipped in chocolate. Rough but good old Macallan, a lost friend, finally in the glass again. The taste is much cleaner and more approachable, but this one hits more heavy on the dark chocolate note, soft wood, oriental spices and latte macchiato. It lacks the elegance of the batch release above, but still delivers a lot of rich delight. Like opening a box of chocolates. There is also something remarkably Highland Park about this whisky, as if it reminds me of old sherry cask bottlings they did in the early years of the century. The woody blue smoke from a Camel cigarette must be responsible for this comparison. Water does not really do anything for the appearance of this Macallan, but the taste gets a good dose of caramel from it. On the finish, this slight sulphury or rubber note lingers.
Word to the Wise: On sheer power, this gets very close to the 15 years old, but it lacks some elegance and this costs some points in the end. Still, a remarkably pleasant M by Signatory! The mind boggles over the fact that this was just around 50 euro in the shop, even though some sneaky retailers already upped the price. They will not rob you in the price-to-quality ratio.
Score: 86 points.