Wolfburn celebrates 70 years of Dounreay
With just 135.000 litres per annum, Wolfburn is truly one of the smaller distilleries in Scotland, but in a region that is not known for whisky distillation, it is a lot. In Thurso in the Northern Highlands, Wolfburn has been going strong since the stills got active in 2013. With age stated core range releases, we are spoiled with disclosure that many enthusiasts crave for. We try to follow Wolfburn from time to time, and today we have a special batch.
Wolfburn 2013, 12 years old, 70 years of Dounreay, bottled at 46 % abv
First things first: This 12 years old Wolfburn matured in a second fill oloroso sherry butt and ex-bourbon, yielding 960 bottles for Dounreay. According to Wikipedia, “Dounreay is a small settlement and the site of two large nuclear establishments on the north coast of Caithness.” Let us hope the whisky is not radioactive!
Upon Sipping: A beautiful mix of dark grinded coffee powder and sweet vanilla makes for a very unusual nose – IF you have never tasted Wolfburn before. Hints of rhubarb, ginger, citrus and damp earth. More in general, whiffs of a bright green forest on a summer’s day. On the palate, the traditional Wolfburn austerity that we adore so much, riddled this time with strong hints of wood, making me think one of these casks was a quarter in size. Rather spicy! Dry chocolate notes on the finish. Water brings out a little bit more fruit on the nose and the citrus smells seem stronger, more vibrant. On the palate brine now, giving us the more maritime side of the Wolfburn spectrum. On repeated sipping earthy notes.
Word to the Wise: Well, we know the distillery produces a moody, austere whisky, but within that spectrum this Wolfburn for Dounreay is unbeatable. I could do with a little bit more freshness or some fruits. This balanced the wrong way for me. Still, good stuff.
Score: 82 points.