Ailsa Bay: Keeper of the Lowland malt whisky soul
Ailsa Bay is the mammoth distillery owned by the William Grant & Sons company, also known for their mega brands Glenfiddich, The Balvenie and Monkey Shoulder. Founded in 2007, the distillery is often overlooked in the categorisation of 21st century distilleries. Of course, churning out 12 million litres of malt spirit a year is far from the romantic view that is created by outfits like Kilchoman on Islay (established one year earlier) or Lochlea, Lindores and Annandale. But as years progress, we have gotten to taste several Ailsa Bay samples, and some are actually very good. There are even official releases called Aerstone, but funnily enough I never tasted those. The official experimental bottles are interesting, but we had two more traditional samples on the table. We must say: nothing wrong with tradition!
Paddy’s Milestone 10 years old, bottled at 54,6 % abv by The Duchess
First things first: Bottled in the Game & Wildlife series by The Duchess, with these beautiful labels done by artist Hans Dilesse. This is supposed to be a blended malt, but it is safe to say this is Ailsa Bay single malt. Bourbon cask # 801404 produced 213 bottles. Distilled in 2011 and bottled in 2022.
Upon Sipping: Wow, this is potent stuff! Big whiffs of freshly cut grass, lemon zest and lemon slices in a glass of 7-Up. Typical lowland roughness, almost with an oily, industrial character, but mixed with the slightest hints of vanilla. Not far removed from the better Daftmill or dare I say: young Rosebank. On the tongue, the vanilla is very pronounced, with a nice milky creaminess that merges into herbal flavours towards the finish. The kick there is full of black pepper and beetroot. That is better than it sounds perhaps. Beautifully unorthodox in any case. With a drop of water we release some sunflower oil, but the rest stays more or less the same in style. It remains more grassy than lemony, which puts it firmly in a lowland style for me. The palate has mellowed a bit with water, though the creamy side is dominant. You can pick up some fruits, but the overall feel of this Ailsa Bay under the name of Paddy’s Milestone remains more herbal and bitter, in the best possible way. A waxy profile can also be found, very subtly.
Word to the Wise: I remember tasting this for the first time and being absolutely over the moon, scoring it a solid 90 points. Tasting this again four years later, and I am still a fan, even if the score was a tad high. This is nevertheless a remarkable lowland malt of which Ailsa Bay can be very proud.
Score: 88 points.
Dalrymple 13 years old, vintage 2011, bottled at 55,3 % abv by Thompson Brothers
First things first: Another “blended malt” distilled at Ailsa Bay in 2011 and bottled in October 2024. A decent 359 bottles from an oloroso hogshead. Dalrymple is the name of a nearby village close to the Girvan grain and Ailsa Bay malt distilleries.
Upon Sipping: Curious about this contrast, as both Ailsa Bay tasted today are from 2011. A beautiful golden colour suggests that the imprint of the sherry is strong. Still, when I stick my nose into the glass, I pick up the same grassy character as the more naked Paddy’s Milestone. They are very related indeed. The industrial notes are stronger, almost reminding me of Springbank in a way. The cask was good, giving off blackcurrant, cherries, leather and spices. On the palate, I find this Dalrymple a tad too dry, with lots of oaky notes, but then I swallow and the reward is deep, spicy chocolate. It makes up for a lot. The afterglow presents something of a pleasant softness. With water the nose is even more enjoyable. Wet bung cloth, sherry wood, a mesmerizing earthy dampiness. The palate can’t exactly keep up with the promise of the nose, but water helps it go down easier. The finish delivers again on chocolate, clove, nutmeg and some oranges. Is it mulled wine season yet? In the lingering moments of this whisky I pick up some pleasant minerals.
Word to the Wise: Impressive stuff. This Ailsa Bay variant is not for the faint of heart, as it offers a somewhat leftfield style that is reminiscent of whisky from the dark ages, like the 1980s and early 1990s, where funky casks could create something unique. This bottle is a no-brainer for purchase. A tad more complex than the Paddy’s Milestone, hence the score.
Score:89 points.