Tasting notes of the 200 years old Benrinnes
We live in good times, because the last few years we have seen quite a lot of bicentennials of classic Scotch distilleries. In 2024 we saw The Glenlivet and Cardhu blow out 200 candles, last year Glencadam joined in. On our tasting table today we have Benrinnes, which was founded in 1826 and you can do the math. The year is not over yet, but I have seen no announcements of Special Releases by Diageo. I guess the rumours were true that the series was put on hold or discontinued altogether. The company focuses solely on releasing bottles that can only be afforded by Russian oligarchs in hiding, oil sheiks and crypto traders of all sorts. Too bad. I long for the days that whiskies were released and turned into legends because lots of people tasted them and spoke of them, wrote about them, and shared them with friends. The good news is: these days are returning, as the crazy bubble is finally bursting. Let’s focus on good old Benrinnes.
By the way, it might be that the owner of Benrinnes does not recognise 1826 as the year of the foundation. There was a farm distillery established in that year, but records show that it was destroyed by a flood in 1829. On the current site, the Benrinnes Distillery was established in 1835. Ah well, any excuses to pour a few drams eh?
Remember, from 1966 to 2008 a partial triple distillation was the norm at Benrinnes, which most likely gave the spirit its meaty profile, not unlike Mortlach, who still uses the same principle. After 2008, Benrinnes reverted to a more regular double distillation. Sadly perhaps, but we have some samples today from after that year, so let’s see if the whisky is still as enticing as it ever was.
Benrinnes 2014, 11 years old, bottled at 54 % abv by Cadenhead’s
First things first: This is a bottle drawn straight from the cask in the illustrious Warehouse Tasting done by Cadenhead’s in Campbeltown. This Benrinnes was distilled in 2014 and has been in a Palo Cortado hogshead since 2023. (No picture of the bottle, so I included a scene of such a Warehouse Tasting.)
Upon Sipping: There is even a piece of cask residue floating in my glass! My first impression is not meaty immediately, but close enough. The Palo Cortado is however loud enough. Nice hints of cold, damp dunnage warehouse, mingled with some Balsamico and orange zest. On the palate, this Benrinnes is surprisingly friendly, I have to say, with a silky soft approach all on milky chocolate notes and balanced wood. The finish however is a different story, exploding with ground black peppers and Andean pure chocolate. With a splash of water, the development in the glass is very satisfying. More chocolate notes, beautiful praline, like walking into a chocolaterie in Belgium of Switzerland. The taste remains more or less the same, but finish now has an off-note containing some sulphur and copper coins. Whatever the distilling regime, Benrinnes remains a fascinating combination with sherry casks.
Word to the Wise: I can see why you buy a bottle of this stuff after a Warehouse Tasting!
Score: 86 points.
Benrinnes 2012, 13 years old, bottled at 57,1 % abv by Signatory Vintage
First things first: A bottling in the 100 proof series, this being # 56. This Benrinnes was matured in first fill & refill Oloroso sherry butts. Bottled on 11 June 2025.
Upon Sipping: More a classic approach, let’s see the contrast with the Palo Cortado single cask. It is interestingly identical, but this Signatory expression displays a lot of wood smoke. It slowly develops into some gunpowder. Not bad if you are into this more funky styles of whisky. The mouthfeel seems a bit more “hard” compared to the silky Cadenhead’s. The difference perhaps being that the Palo Cortado was a finish, and this Signatory had the full blast of sherry wood for 13 years. It has rough edges mostly made of wood notes, but there are some hints of chocolate, for sure. A more vinegary note emerges on the finish. Water brings a charming improvement on the nose, almost a more floral scent now, like gorse in bloom on a mountain slope. Some heather in there too. On the palate we find the same chocolate character now, and the finish remains rather unbalanced, but gives a nice kick.
Word to the Wise: A diamond in the rough, you need to lick this style as it takes no prisoners. Certainly worth your time if you like a dirty edge on your single malt. More highland soul than Speyside spirit.
Score: 84 points.
Benrinnes 1996, 24 years old, bottled at 51,9 % abv by Signatory Vintage
First things first: Two hogshead combined! This is a vatting of # 11723 and # 11737 resulting in 538 bottles. This Benrinnes was distilled on 28 October 1996, so nearly 30 years ago. But it was put into glass on 12 March 2021 so this is “just” a 24 years old. A bottling in the Cask Strength Collection of Signatory in those preposterous big bottles.
Upon Sipping: So this Benrinnes will be an example of a partly triple distilled style. Without the sherry, the copper coins have free reign, but the years in the cask have also added some fruity notes of apricot and peach. Some hints of candy bears, but not very expressive. On the tongue this Benrinnes dances as a ballerina, very elegant and lightfooted. The apricot has turned into a mouthcovering marmalade, with a side of chocolate dipped orange slices. The finish is more savoury, with that meaty signoff that you would expect from a Benrinnes. The copper coins emerge everywhere on the sensory trip. The overall feel is quite dry actually. With water: stronger fruit aroma but the oaky elements have a thing or two to say as well. The palate displays more copper, hints of pumpernickel bread, some honey and the more you move backwards towards the finish: bitter oak.
Word to the Wise: Maybe a tad too austere to become a classic, but for a 24 year old single malt it delivers character and punch.
Score: 87 points.