AnCnoc / Knockdhu malts on the tasting table
The Knockdhu Distillery is one of those hidden gems among whisky aficionados. The spirit produced there seems to have just that much more backbone compared to other Speyside whiskies, like the almost namesake Knockando. Actually, I had to check if Knockdhu is indeed a Speyside whisky, as I would sooner categorize it as a Highland whisky. Not only based on location, but also according to taste characteristics. Knockdhu offers a more gritty experience. As most of you probably know, the owner (Inver House) uses the name “AnCnoc” to sell their single malt, to indeed avoid confusion with the aforementioned Knockando, a popular single malt in some markets. Independent bottlers however, just put the distillery name on the label, which is fine by me. We can all read, can’t we? Today, we taste one official (so, AnCnoc) and two independents.
AnCnoc 2007, bottled at 52,2 % abv
First things first: This anCnoc was bottled in 2023, making it roughly 16 years old. Single cask # 649 was a Single Cask Exclusive for the Netherlands, with 180 bottles being released.
Upon Sipping: The essential and most basic way to really understand a single malt whisky is to experience it like this. No exotic casks, just a good piece of wood from America, filled up and left alone. Then you can sample the distillery character. Very fresh and crisp, with lots of bread, lemons and vanilla. Some copper coins and yoghurt in the background. The taste carries a lot of weight, almost as if the liquid defies gravity and feels heavy on the tongue. Rather spicy and hot from the alcohol, even though the abv is quite okay here. With water, the nose takes on a much more farmy character, with dry grasses and hay in a barn, hungry horses snapping away at it. The taste has taken a bitter turn, that surprises me a bit. More dry bread, big brown chunks left too long in the oven. The fire has been put out though, that is a plus.
Word to the Wise: A complex and dare I say difficult AnCnoc, that will keep you hooked for a long while. Single malt whisky in a pure and unadulterated appearance, just how we like it.
Score: 85 points.
Knockdhu 2010, 11 years old, bottled at 55,1 % abv by Cadenhead’s
First things first: This Knockdhu was distilled in 2010 and matured until December 2017, when it was transferred into a Madeira hogshead. The end result was 276 bottles in the Wood Range.
Upon Sipping: Onwards to a mixed Knockdhu sample, after the pure expression above. This is almost split between two maturation cycles. It took on a lot of golden colour in any case, but the nose got a dirty edge. Caramel in the sun, melting on a rubbery boot. Some of the elements from the pure Knockdhu distillate does shine through, but the wine influence is very heavy and pronounced. Some fruitiness comes off quite pleasant. The taste is a contrast, opening with sweet sugary notes and fruit, before turning sharp and wooded on the finish. Lots and lots of dark chocolate and cherry bonbons. With water, it takes a turn for the worse towards the dirty notes, farmyard and horse droppings and all. If you are into that, this is your dram! The taste gains some balance from water, but you need to like your whisky very dark, bitter and woody.
Word to the Wise: Even though some elements are missing that would make this a whisky that I enjoy, I can notice the whole concoction is well made. There is balance and lots of flavour. Worth seeking out if wine influenced single malt whisky is your go-to.
Score: 82 points.
Knockdhu 1991, 31 years old, bottled at 46,6 % abv by Hunter Laing
First things first: Distilled in April 1991 (that is 35 years ago exactly this month) and bottled in May 2022, making this a 31 year old single malt. This refill barrel in the Old & Rare line produced 351 bottles.
Upon Sipping: This is a different cookie of course! Not a total fruit bomb however, but certainly going into that direction. There is a dusty layer covering everything, making this a rather dry dram to sniff, like opening a bag of candy that has been wrapped up and put away in the drawer for a few months too long. Expired ozone. There, I have thought up something entirely new, haven’t I? In the deeper layers it is mostly vanilla that rules the day, with hints of yellow apples to balance out this Knockdhu 1991 after 31 years in wood. Those three decades are not really noticeable on the palate though, where the fruity flavour is very powerful and spicy. Indeed, yellow apples, with slight hints of something more sour, leaning towards pineapple juice but never going overboard. On the finish, some cardboard, or maybe better described as tired apple skin. Some bread and honey linger in the background. With water, bitter notes come out of the wood works, quite literally actually, with sawdust and wood oil. Here, it loses some of the fruit kick, which is a pity. The whisky has struggled towards the bottle, but was probably better off being put into glass as a 25 years old.
Word to the Wise: An interesting Scotch, no doubt, but hindered by a bit of tiredness. This has become a secluded hermit who is shy to show face. There is joy to be found, but the flame is diminished a bit too much.
Score: 87 points.