Clynelish Bonanza with 1989, 1997, 2011 and 2014
There are times you find yourself looking at a sample drawer that contains no Clynelish at all, and the next moment you find a bonanza of them. I contemplated what to do; split up all these samples in separate blogs, or try to plow through all of them, with the risk of terribly upsetting my webmaster who always creates the beautiful mood pictures that I post on the socials? Well, what else could I do? We power through! Kick off with the oldest and then ending with a few modern releases. Clynelish through the ages. The youngest vintage I have ever tasted of Clynelish is the last one, the 2014, I just realised.
Our beloved Clynelish – as I dare say because the spirit is renowned amongst connaisseurs, was recently in the news with quite a remarkable development. The not so long ago rebuilt visitor centre is apparently closing. That is weird, as it was supposed to be one of the four corners of Scotland, with a proud Johnnie Walker link at all distilleries (the others being Cardhu, Glenkinchie and Caol Ila). Sounds like a terrible mistake to me, even though amongst whisky fans there is already a long held belief that owner Diageo is just unable to read the room properly, as the saying goes. Ripping your fans off with ridiculously overpriced Distillery Only expressions is not the way forward. On top of that, the tour prices for Brora and Port Ellen are also not making positive waves. Quite the opposite, in fact.
Alright, let us wash away this sideshow taste with some waxiness!
Clynelish 11 years old, vintage 1989, bottled at 46 % abv by Cadenhead’s
First things first: This comes from a bourbon butt. Yes, you read that right. It produced no less than 624 bottles for the Original Collection. Distilled in 1989, bottled in February 2001.
Upon Sipping: Initially, rather classic, sawdust and vanilla. Hints of broth too. Pleasantly waxy, more on paraffine and vaseline than bees. A tad industrious because of this, but at the same time gentle and outgoing. The taste is reminiscent of the worst Clynelish of these days, those that have the elements of bucket water after washing your furniture, but it remains on the safe side. That means more vanilla and honey, some grasses, nice bitter tones leaning towards soft chocolate. The finish is spicy and long, making this a good impact dram at 46 %. With water it gives some more unwanted flavours. This is fragile stuff.
Word to the Wise: Clynelish from around 1990 is difficult, as it often has an off-note that reminds me of dirty dish water. It is not strong in this version, but it is there. That makes for a delicate balance in this expression and an interesting drinking experience.
Score: 83 points.
Clynelish 1997 – 2013, bottled at 54,7 % abv by Malts of Scotland
First things first: This Clynelish from the famous 1997 vintage was distilled in March, making it a tad earlier than the David Stirk expression below, which was distilled in April. Matured in a bourbon hogshead and bottled in 2013 for the 10th Whisky Live in Spa, Belgium. 242 bottles.
Upon Sipping: That is a rich nose, full blown waxes and candles, lots of honey. Lots of wood spices, herbal infusions, before fruit like mango sets in. The palate cannot keep up with the intentions of the palate, however, but the beeswax is very strong on this one, making it a true Clynelish experience. It seems not all 1997 was stellar, but this comes close enough. Good balance for a single cask. A drop of water will bring out more exotic smells, like petrichor and damp forest earth. Maybe a whiff of sea air in the wind, after all Clynelish is a coastal malt. Indeed, some salinity on the palate now as well. The cask played in service of the spirit, that is for sure, and Clynelish is not easy to tame.
Word to the Wise: A rather complex and interesting single malt, this Clynelish for Whisky Live Belgium 2013. Good to check out a more robust expression of the famous 1997 vintage.
Score: 87 points.
Clynelish 12 years old, vintage 1997, bottled at 45 % abv by Creative Whisky Company
First things first: This Clynelish from the famous 1997 vintage was distilled on 18 April, making it a tad later than the MoS expression above. Matured in a refill hogshead # 4608 and then presumably watered down to fill 383 bottles. Released in 2009.
Upon Sipping: Candy and fruits, like opening a pack of Haribo gummi bears. Perhaps a bit too much wood on the nose, sawdust and fresh resin. Not without its charm but a bit dull overall. The palate suffers from diluting this Clynelish down to 45 % abv. It carries hints of cardboard and is too wooded for pleasure. Then come the waxes, that taste rather bitter, just more wood. On repeated sipping you get a more malty vibe, but overall this tastes almost like a virgin oak expression. With water, curiously bland.
Word to the Wise: This just does not work, at all. Wood spirit. To be fair, I have tasted several examples by this bottler, and it seems David Stirk has a preference for this woody, almost bourbon like expression. If that is your thing, this is your Scotch. I like a tad more variation.
Score: 73 points.
The Wildcat’s Nectar, vintage 2011, bottled at 50,3 % abv by PerfectDram
First things first: Clynelish from the vintage 2011 has gained a reputation already, but this is an odd one, finished for 24 months in PX. Cask # 6 produced 280 bottles.
Upon Sipping: While there are excellent examples of Clynelish working very well on sherry, it is a dangerous combination. Waxiness and a sulphury cask can create a nightmare. This could be such an example, as the nose opens very rich and lush, with a hint of smokiness. Then a good dose of red fruit. The waxes are filtered through strawberries and cherries. I must say, the result suits me quite nicely. Then a sip. Well, here is where the PX cask has truly rubbed off, with an overly sweetened attack on the tongue. These overripe cherries have a sour kick. Oy, you really need a sweet tooth for this creation. With water: hints of candy sticks but also more Clynelish DNA wrestling out of the PX grip. The taste has turned into an excellent strawberry milkshake.
Word to the Wise: Nectar indeed! This works very well, I must admit. The PX influence is very strong in this one, but there is enough Clynelish distillery character left to enjoy. In short: the finish was contained. Well done!
Score: 88 points.
Clynelish 11 years old, vintage 2014, bottled at 52,4 % by Càrn Mòr
First things first: Matured on bourbon, this 2014 vintage produced 246 bottles when it was bottled this year: 2026.
Upon Sipping: Let’s try this fairly modern Clynelish then! It is not instantly recognisable as Clynelish, I must say, because the wood influence and vanilla is very present. When given some time, a nice floral note opens the dance, with a piece of candy in hand, and finally some waxiness. Gets decidedly more fruity on repeated sniffs and swirling of the liquid in the glass. Very fresh and happy in character. On the palate, the waxes have free reign above anything else, with lots of creamy infusion that is soaked in vanilla and honey spread. This Scotch you could easily pour in your tea a little and have a party. The nose keeps getting more beautiful and rounded, and while there is a little imbalance on the palate and finish, this is a tremendous dram. Can we stock up?
Word to the Wise: A good example of Clynelish having things well under control, except for their tourism business that is.
Score: 86 points.