Contradictions between two Knockando malts
Don’t mind me, but when I think about the Knockando Speyside single malt whisky, my heart gets a bit heavy. The distillery was closed for quite some time between 2017 and 2023 and from the core range only the 12 years old remains. The charming vintage statements have all but disappeared. During a quick dash into Germany in December, I came across this 12 years old in the standard Diageo whisky bottle. What now? Is even the distinctive old bottle of Knockando a thing of the past? I hope this is all temporary. Bring back our beloved Knockando! I know it is not the most complex malt out there, but maybe because of its easy going nature, I like it so much. Anyway, I came across two independently bottled expressions, which is quite a rare experience, and I decided to taste them both for the blog.
Knockando 10 years old, bottled at 57 % abv by Gordon & MacPhail
First things first: Distilled in 2015 and bottled on 13 January 2026 in the revamped Spirit of Scotland range. Only 157 bottles came out of cask # 1282.
Upon Sipping: Straw yellow colour, this should be pretty straightforward. Quite delicate and almost perfumed on the nose, with hints of grass, or hay even, and wet yellow apple skin. Vanilla, of course. The palate offers more excitement, with a creamy hot and very, very nutty explosion. The high abv is not doing this Knockando any favours, but the pure character of which this single malt is known for is there in spades. This might well be the nuttiest spirit out there on Speyside. Remarkable. Also, quite a contrast with the nose, I have to say. With water, this changes, it brings more balance to the experience, with dry walnut and tree bark. Then the vanilla crawls back into the spotlight, but with a honeyed element. The water has (sadly) driven out some of the nutty tastes on the palate, but instead we get a more citrusy note. More wood, also, and bitterness. Still, what a dram! On repeated sipping we pick up some nice wood smoke as well.
Word to the Wise: I never encountered a whisky that so blatantly displays the house style as this Knockando bottling by Gordon & MacPhail. It seems straightforward but it keeps on revealing all kinds of beautiful elements. This should be a stimulus for Diageo to start taking Knockando seriously again, and release some stunning whiskies. Preferably at high strength.
Score: 87 points.
Knockando 15 years old, bottled at 54,4 % abv by Signatory Vintage
First things first: Distilled on 22 October 2010 and bottled on 29 January 2026. It received a finish in a first fill Oloroso sherry hogshead, and that shows, the whisky is nice and dark. Cask # 4 produced 334 bottles.
Upon Sipping: This is rich, dark and brooding from the start. And then I pick up this subtle perfumed note that I also had in the unbothered sample above. It becomes stronger on repeated sniffing, with wood spices and even some ginger and mint. Even an Indian curry is not too far-fetched to imagine. Quite a nose, in short. The taste is a battle between the cask and that famous nutty Knockando spirit. It remains in the corner of the cask, besides being a tad hot, but that I am used to with expressions in these big Signatory bottles. I never liked that design, and the whiskies inside always seem too alcoholic in nature. No nuance. That problem arises more or less in this bottling too. With water we draw out some furniture notes, but basically the whisky remains within the parameters. On the palate, it improved quite a bit. More sweetness and soft hazelnut spread. The finish is still a weak spot for this overly sherried Knockando. It leaves a nasty bite. I am not going to add more water, so we have to take it as it is.
Word to the Wise: It all feels a bit pressure cooked and that is a pity. With enough effort, the Knockando character can be salvaged, but in the end this is yet another bottling in this series by Signatory Vintage that fails to convince me. Give me a 100 proof edition any day over this. The nose brings some redemption.
Score: 83 points.