Kilchoman Rockside: a softer side to peaty malt
Who remembers the early days of Kilchoman, when it was a small distillery next to the Rockside Farm? Just two stills purring away, maltings carried out on location, and casks scattered around everywhere there was a place to fit one. Kilchoman stole the hearts of many a peat whisky lover and business was good. Capacity was doubled in 2019. Years before that Kilchoman took over the Rockside Farm. This was in 2015, and now exactly 11 years later we have a Kilchoman Rockside of the same age on the table. Let’s have a taste!
Kilchoman Rockside, 11 years old, bottled at 46 % abv
First things first: This Kilchoman was matured in a combination of bourbon and oloroso sherry casks, distilled from barley lightly peated to 20 PPM. A Single Farm Single Malt!
Upon Sipping: Well, it might be lightly peated, but it is very pronounced peat then, because it jumps right out of the glass. Beautiful dry barley husk, with a whiff of smoke over it. Deeper in the glass you find an unusual maritime signature, more associated with Kildalton coast distilleries like Ardbeg. Very interesting! Also some linseed or sunflower oil, heating up but not quite sizzling yet. An ethereal nose, I have to say, pure brilliance! The arrival on the palate is equally satisfying, with a sweet tinge and then this sugary peated sense, while chewing on a piece of malted barley. Maybe you ever did a tour at a distillery and they let you taste some raw ingredients; this is what you will find in the Kilchoman Rockside. Very pure. Sometimes, it seems, you do not need to PPM your barley to death. This subtlety almost entirely dominates the conversation. The balance is incredible. The one thing lacking is perhaps a more powerful finish. Is that the 46 % abv versus the 50 % abv that we are used to with Kilchoman? I did not put in any water, I cannot see any reason to do that.
Word to the Wise: A cracker of a Kilchoman, one you can truly find the meaning of peated whisky in. I am a big fan of this style. The balance between the peat and the spirit is exquisite.
Score: 88 points.