Laphroaig and Williamson Islay malt side by side
If there is one single malt brand that I have changed my mind on most in the past year, it must be Laphroaig. With their very decent core range releases of new 12 and 15 years old expressions, I am looking at the future with confidence. Quality should always be the main concern when you bring out whisky. Sales will follow soon enough. Talking about sales, we have seen multitudes of Laphroaig hitting the market under the name Williamson, an alias that nods to the legendary distillery manager Bessie Williamson. Read more about her here. However honouring the use of her name might be, I prefer seeing the original distillery name on a label. On the other hand, it beats the unimaginative “Unknown Islay” blah blah. Anyway, today we dive into three samples; one of which is an official Laphroaig, and two are labelled with Williamson.
Laphroaig Càideas for Feis Ile 2026, bottled at 52,6 % abv
First things first: This “friendship” bottle of the Laphroaig Feis Ile 2026 was matured in French oak casks. The official website explains that these casks are normally used for maturing wine and Cognac, but they do not specify what was in the casks before they contained Laphroaig.
Upon Sipping: Or is it virgin French oak, also possible, right? The liquid has a nice, dark bronze colour in any case. All seems well when I stick my nose in the glass, with whiffs of medicinal peat greeting me. Laphroaig as we want to find it, eh? Perhaps some more mint and pinewood than I am used to, but it feels balanced. On the palate we find a delicate sweet note, with quite some teeth. Then a more syrupy mouthfeel and taste. The smoke seems a bit subdued now, but when you swallow it starts smouldering and lingering for a long time. On repeated sipping I pick up a stronger wood note. This makes me think of my thought that this could be a virgin oak maturation. With a little water this Laphroaig Càideas for Feis Ile 2026 starts smelling like a bar of soap. Soap made on Islay, of course. This note transfers to the tastebuds too.
Word to the Wise: Not my preferred style. The whisky is not terrible but I am not quite sure virgin oak is a type of maturation that suits Laphroaig. The wood has cancelled out the positive sides of the spirit. Try before you buy, this might split the fanbase.
Score: 82 points.
Williamson 2013, 11 years old, bottled at 60,9 % abv by Berry Bros & Rudd
First things first: Cask # 211 produced 292 bottles of Williamson finished in a Moscatel cask. A bottling for BBR importer Craft Spirits in The Netherlands. High abv always makes me worry. But this one and the next share that high abv.
Upon Sipping: What keeps me going in this session is the thought I have a normal, naked Laphroaig waiting for me at the end. Moscatel has been used for the Caol Ila Distillers Edition, but I do not think I ever tried it in combination with a Laphroaig. The nose does not promise a lot of good. It smells like sweet ‘n sour sauce from McDonald’s. Nice on my chicken nuggets, but not in the glass please. Within a few minutes time it does settle and the more usual Moscatel notes mix in. That is about all I get, as the high abv probably prevents me from picking up any Laphroaig character. On the palate, you immediately pick up an unbalance. Like there is a shell around where you want to get to. I want to stick a hole in it and suck out the Laphroaig that is undoubtedly there. Good aftertaste on chocolate and peat. With water we managed to release peat, but also a strong hit of rubber boots. It also turned more meaty, a trait I always like in whisky. Still, to me, Laphroaig and Moscatel do not seem to match. Water helps and brings out a lot of smoke.
Word to the Wise: Patience and water are good recipes for this Williamson on Moscatel. It was not really my cup of tea, but if you like something different and are into bold and meaty, peaty whisky, this is your bottle.
Score: 84 points.
Williamson 2014, 11 years old, bottled at 61,4 % abv by Archives
First things first: Distilled on 3 April 2014 and bottled at a worryingly abv on 7 April 2025 from a bourbon barrel that produced 189 bottles. Cask # 291 was probably a barrel with breathing troubles. Bottled for Heads and Tails 10th anniversary.
Upon Sipping: Was it put in the cask at a higher abv than the regular 63,5 % abv? We open with a more buttery peat impression. Some creamy notes really play together with the typical Islay smoke. This reminds me of vintage 1997 peated Bunnahabhain (their very first runs with peat) which also resulted in a sour milk element in the whisky. With some time, it fades, and dry peated malt remains on the nose. Slight hints of bacon. The palate is gently kissed by the liquid, I have to say, no extreme bit of whatever. The finish gives a decent kick, but this Williamson by Archives is surprisingly easy to take. And it is very good! Still, we threw in some drops of water to see what would happen. It appears we unleashed more ashes now, but also a fruity element. Apples floating in sea water. Spearmint leaves. A jar of medicine. On the tongue, there is now a creamy sweetness, mostly vanilla notes and a very modest smoke signature. Oh yes, this secret Laphroaig starts to take off now. On repeated sipping, the fruity character prevails more and more, much to my surprise.
Word to the Wise: This is a secret Laphroaig that unfolds very slowly, but when you have the patience for it to deliver the goods, you are in for a big reward. Islay whisky in its purest form.
Score: 89 points.