The Beast of Dufftown: true to form in two samples
Mortlach has a strong reputation for releases of sherried expressions. It therefore peaked my interested when I saw that edition # 84 of Signatory’s popular 100 proof edition series was a Mortlach quite dark in colour, matured in PX butts. Since the price of this series is still very attractive, I picked up a bottle and cracked it open straight away. Will we find the ghost of former jewels like the 16 Years Old Flora & Fauna? For good measure, we also tasted a more naked version of Mortlach. Let us check the old nickname: the Beast of Dufftown!
Mortlach 10 years old, vintage 2016, bottled at 57,1 % abv by Signatory Vintage
First things first: Edition # 84 in the 100 proof series by Signatory, this rather youngish Mortlach received a finish in first fill Pedro Ximénez butts. Bottled in 2026.
Upon Sipping: Beast of Dufftown indeed, as this Morlach opens with a fierce nose drenched in raisins, tobacco leaves and dark chocolate. Then red berries and a hint of meatiness. The slightest hint of something sulphury that makes this truly carry the Mortlach DNA. When we take some liquid in the mouth, we really have to check the label, as it steers clear from usual PX sweetness. It is a more herbal, dark spicy example of this classic Speysider. The complex spirit of Mortlach shows us that it can take on any cask. The palate is covered in sticky dark chocolate and leaves a pleasantly warming burn on the finish. With water, this Mortlach blooms open beautifully, with slight hints of dried apricot and thick, fat honeycomb. On the palate, the taste has turned a little leathery and dry, but this is befitting a good sherried dram. This Mortlach can therefore show two faces in the same expression. Only the finish is a tad raw, but at 10 years old, Mortlach is not for the faint of heart.
Word to the Wise: Excellent sherried Mortlach, as the classic expression of this distillery should present itself. I was curious how the PX influence would manifest, but to me this tastes closer to an oloroso cask matured whisky. I think that is good news.
Score: 87 points.
Mortlach 16 years old, vintage 2006, bottled at 52 % abv by Douglas Laing
First things first: An Old Particular bottling with Mortlach distilled on 1 November 2006 and bottled on 1 February 2023. From a refill hogshead (213 bottles) with reference DL 16549.
Upon Sipping: Purists will say this is not the way to savour Mortlach, and indeed, bourbon matured single malt from this distillery used to be as rare as a sheep in a pub for wolves. But it IS a chance to experience the naked spirit of this classic Dufftown distillery. At 16 years old, this is crispy clean stuff in the glass, with light hints of vanilla, slightly smoky barley and lots of dry husk. Some of those meaty elements express themselves in the way of copper coins, but it is very subtle. On the tongue, it is sweeter than expected, without being overly fruity. The vanilla signature is creating harmony. Water brings out a more sugary barley note. It is on the finish where this Mortlach sets itself aside from more run of the mill Speyside brothers and sisters. Mortlach is never “just another whisky”. With time and that few drops of water, there is a more traditional pumpernickel aroma rising from the glass.
Word to the Wise: Not the most exciting Mortlach I ever tasted, but it deserves points for being so on the mark of distillery character. Clean, educational whisky.
Score: 85 points.