Three Dava Way bottles connected to Dunphail
My recent visit to the Dunphail Distillery came with a tasting pack of three bottlings done by The Dava Way. These are independent releases in support of the distilling effort at Dunphail, that is actually located near to the Dava Moor and the Dava Way footpath, that also passes the Dallas Dhu Distillery, as a matter of fact. Since I was driving, I was able to take the samples home for a proper sitdown now, and to scribble some decent tasting notes. Not the most regular names on the table today, which I always like!
Inchgower 15 years old, bottled at 51,2 % abv by The Dava Way
First things first: Vintage 2009 and matured in a first fill bourbon barrel.
Upon Sipping: A very interesting and fresh mix of vanilla, yellow apples and shiny white beach sand picked up by the wind. Located on the outskirts of Buckie, the northern side of Speyside near the sea, Inchgower is very much a coastal malt, not unlike Glenglassaugh. The nose is very fragrant. On the tongue, the mix continues, with a salty arrival and then a good dose of luscious vanilla. It is on the finish where this Inchgower lifts off, with a very spicy, delicately oaky exit that carries long and satisfying. Salty vanilla lingers. With water, the coastal character moves to the front seat, while the salinity on the palate increases too.
Word to the Wise: I really enjoyed drinking this outright coastal Inchgower, with straightforward delivery but complexity too.
Score: 86 points.
Aultmore 16 years old, bottled at 54,6 % abv by The Dava Way
First things first: Vintage 2008 and matured in a first fill oloroso cask.
Upon Sipping: Close to Keith, this is a more classic eastern Speyside single malt, but in this particular case it lets the sherry do the talking. A bit nutty and glazed with caramel syrup. In the distance we pick up the clean distillery character, with some barley notes and warm bread. For drinking, this is a very rewarding sherried malt, with soft strawberry notes, before you move on to the finish, that has a sharper, more dry edge, reminiscent of cigar leaf. A sour note lingers for a while. It ends somewhere between tree bark and hazelnut. With water, the nuttiness has turned creamy so you can spread it on a sandwich. Drinkability has improved a lot, with the rougher edges laid to rest, and more room for the chocolate notes and now more subtle red fruits.
Word to the Wise: Walks a tight rope on the sherry character, but survives. This Aultmore has some rough edges but is in the end a rewarding dram.
Score: 84 points.
Ledaig 15 years old, bottled at 53,6 % abv by The Dava Way
First things first: Vintage 2009 and matured in a hogshead.
Upon Sipping: Quite a classic nose, no surprises, just straight up peat, lemons and tar. Seafood lunch, kelp, and whiffs of sea breeze coming in from the beach. Not the same beach that salted the Inchgower though, this is rougher, rural whisky. On the palate, rather medicinal, with the peat having a nasty bite that really rips the shreds of your tongue. Really a rollercoaster peat beast. With a dash of water, we are not shy with it, we pick up a whole kelp forest, washed up on the beach and drying in the sun. One of the most maritime whiskies I have tried all year! Stunning. Dry fishing boat wood with a new coat of tar. Also, a jar of paint left opened, the brush placed on it, dried up. The palate has lost some of its potency and therefore its attractiveness, but it has become a nice, sour lemon sensation now. Salty finish.
Word to the Wise: Even for a Ledaig this one seems a-typical and offers a nice variation on what a peated island whisky has to offer.
Score: 87 points.